Chivay to Puno

I left, once again, very early. Driving up to 4900 meters above sea level that early was quite cold for my fingers. The engine did fine, until the level of gasoline got a bit low.

Just to be sure, I did some more check ups. It turned out to just be the lack of gasoline, so that I would have to refill or switch on the reserve, every time the engine would stop. The views were more spectacular at first, but it was nicer when it got a bit hotter. I´ve seen so much incredible nature now...

Made it all the way to Puno, where I got pulled over by cops. They immediatly shipped me off as they saw that I was a white woman. What wrong am I gonna do? just ride without a licence. taha. On my way out of Arequipa, I didn´t take any chances and did a loop in a dirty little village to avoid the police check ups.

Seing Lake Titicaca was quite a reward. I should´ve sat down to relax, but I got some great massage tips, and went searching. A woman walked with me for great parts of it, just to help out. Only found overprices places and was exhausted by the end of it. Now I´m all wrapped up in a blanket, ready for the big day tomorrow.

Its my last day in Peru, today, and I´ve been reflecting. I really came to like peruvians as well as their nature. Colombians are different. They have this incredible pulse, while peruvians have a more reserved pride(in a good way), and I´ve talked to so many nice old men that love to talk about their country. There´s a different crowd travelling in Peru, and its amazing how established tourism is here. You´ll find a gringo anywhere!

There´s also an older crowd, very often couples, travelling in Peru. Definately more europeans.

I am now very much excited about how Bolivia will be! I´ll miss the peruvian roads at one point, probably. The food too. Oh boy..

Colca Canyon

I got up early and made my way towards Colca Canyon; a B-eautiful drive! Pictures will come as soon as I get proper internet connection. There were dirt roads, as I knew. Bumpy, gravely, full of waterholes and a few rivers. You just had to lift your feet up high and give gas, where you couldn`t get past on the sides. There were tourist buses that helped me out in the tunnels, where they could actually light it up. On the way back, I was not that lucky. Just tried my best not to hit a wall.
There were a terrible deal of clouds at Cruz del Condor, so I kept riding down some beautiful roads, to a little village. I visited nearly all of the villages on the way back from Cruz del Condor, which stayed cloudy for a long time. Almost all of the tourists gave up and went back. I knew it would clear up eventually, and got my reward: a magnificent view and spotting my first condor; a old and huge bird that is admired all over South America.
One thing that surprised me about visiting Colca Canyon, was that I was a tourist attraction worth taking their photo with...
And yeah.. Note to self: next time you go offroading, don`t forget a sportsbrah.

Later in the day, I read chemistry in the park, bought my everyday lucuma jet - ice cream from a seven year old ice cream salesgirl... went to the hot springs for a long bath; there I naturally encountered some other gringos, and when I came back, someone had Finally moved into my hotel. I`m meeting the nice argentinians for some cooking and a beer later tonight. One of them is dead keen on riding on the back to Puno, tomorrow morning. If we could ship our stuff with the other argentinian, that Could just work.

As for Tornado, I refilled a little bit of air and oil. The main problem was really the gasoline filter that was dirty and full of water. That`s emptied, but I need to change the filter and the tube in Bolivia. I was just glad that there was something wrong that I could fix! not just altitude.

Arequipa and Chivay

09/02/11

After saying goodbye to the guys, I was on my way to Arequipa for 30 soles. The bus was fine, besides the fact that the speOakers were directly above my head, bursting out the Godfather 2 in spanish. I talked to a nice man from Arequipa, and took a sleeping pill to knock myself out for the whole 11 hours. Worked nicely.
Took a taxi for 5 soles to the center, for The Flying Dog hostel, where my dear Tornado was waiting for me. He has had some upgrades, and I can't wait to ride him tomorrow. I didn´t want to start riding now, when there's so much traffic.
Its a nice hostel with a good breakfast. Just a bit too expensive for me. I´m leaving for Colca Canyon at dawn, and intend to stay at Chivay, before going to Puno.
Arequipa is pretty, but there´s not a lot to do. I´ve walked around, snatched photos, met a guy I knew from Colombia, hung out with some people and really enjoyed watching The Expendables. We´re now going out for a free instrumental concert in the San Francisco church.
Other things to do in Arequipa is fine dining, party and visiting the Santa Catalina monastary.
The evening before I left, I met a german guy on a bike too. Might run into him in Colca Canyon.

I´m now enjoying some newfound music: Devendra Banhart (-freely, escpecially). Thanks Dolan.

Riding to Chivay

What a day!!

Chivay is the little town nearby Colca Canyon, the worlds deepest canyon. To get there, I got up really early and loaded my bike. And hey, my straps are just falling apart, and to not have to wait until traffic commences, I used lots of electrical cables as security! Disturbing.
I was afraid. Seriously afraid to get back on the bike after two months. Riding in such altitudes where the engine keeps tugging, so that you have to remain leveled out in every turn, didn´t help, either. Gradually, I`d get more and more comfortable again.
Travelling is strange. I`m just.. getting to know places now. Exploring. My passion is fresh and stirring. My eye is searching and admiring. My mind is saying I should be more careful.
I did conquer my fears today. Life gave me a nice reward for it. The scenery is once again very admirable. There`s hardly any plant life, but a few animal species; some sort of deer, alpacas and flamingos.
Can`t believe I was walking on my bike that many times to defeat the altitude, still remaining so positive that I was going to make it. I was rolling downhill at one point. The engine just died again and again, after I had passed the highest point, by some snowcapped mountains. Can`t say how worried I am about going back up there, on my way to Puno. Don`t feel like being stuck down here, though Chivay is a lovely town! Taking my bike to a mechanic later.

Everything has tasted great here, people are nice and wearing colorful, traditional clothing, and the dogs are the loveliest I`ve seen. The mountains are spectacular. Sorry, but Norway is just losing this fight...
I found a friendly hotel here for 10 soles, called El Rey. I`ve snatched photos and had a great lunch in a restaurant on the way to the bullfight arena. The landscape in the valley is lovely and there`s flowers all about. Its raining now, so its time to get some chemistry done. In the morning, its due offroading Colca Canyon! Hopefully some thermal baths, too.