Becoming a biker

Saturday, November 13th, 2010

A new... twist..

I never felt that I was like other people, and this is probably the biggest proof I have of that being the truth. My heart was so open to everything, ready to jump into every adventure crossing my path. I was already high on life. My decision brought me deep down at times, but also sky high. I will never regret it.

As we came to Salento, we checked in at La Serrana, which was nothing like my simple life finca, but it had parking and it had an absolutely lovely country house feel, and an included breakfast. Victor met some friends from the Panama boat: a couple that was travelling by push bike, and we went out with them to eat. Right after we arrived, we also met a polish couple that had two bikes for sale: a red Honda 225 xl, and the bike that swoomed me: a black Honda 250 Tornado. They say girls fall for guys that are tall, dark and bad for you. Now I can join that club.
The next morning, after talking a lot about practical stuff, we went for a test run up Valle de Cocora's muddy slopes. I rode the red bike up there, and I probably should have ridden the Tornado to realize how tall he was for me. Just how that would effect my riding, I would painfully discover later on.
Our original idea was that we'd find me a bike in Ecuador, but here two bikes were, bought in Argentina, with all the papers ready to be transferred into my name, without spending days arranging a local purchase where I wouldn't know what I'd be getting. The red bike was considerably cheaper, but this if I'm gonna risk my life, then I'm not risking it for something that's second best. It's also a popular bike that shouldn't be too difficult to sell, with contacts, and it's easy to find and fix parts here. South americans are also fantastic at coming up with creative solutions. Bikes and bikers are popular in Colombia. We luckily don't have to pay or stop at checkpoints, which would have made traffic much slower.

On the way down from the Valley, I got to try the Tornado. It immediately felt amazing. To see how it felt, I was in the lead, riding a bit faster than I had, as there was no traffic. But too many things going on in my head, in addition to the surprise of seing a truck on my side of the road after exiting a turn, kept me from being cautious for wet leaves, and on the wet ground I tried to turn slowly. But it was too slow, and I slipped, terrified that I had just smashed Tornado. I could feel that I was alright, even though my knee had taken a hit. No one had thought to lend me knee protectors... I couldn't walk in the beginning, and for the first few seconds, I thought: that was it. No more riding for me. But they were all nice about it, and I realized that no, it wasn't over. We all fall, again and again. I've fallen several times since, but standing still, and learning from it every time. One time was when we all stopped in a hill, one time was just my knee being too weak to stop the tall bike from tipping, and the last time was crawling through the slow rush hour, taking a chance by following others onto the a bit too muddy side road and then driving too slow when going back up on the curve. For that and rough terrain, I´ve learned that you should stand up on the bike, which will make things a whole new deal. It's been tough and it hurts my confidence more than me. Unfortunatly, the one time I just tipped over was right after I had bought the bike, and it was directly on my wounded knee, causing it too swoll up like hell. I had to walk a lot around on it, comparing prices and buying protection, though I couldn't bend it. That, being tired, the fear of not being able to protect my bike and myself from falling, the question if I had just made a huge mistake buying an expensive bike that I have to take responsibility for and sell for less than I bought it for, the fact that I was under a lot of pressure to learn a lot of precautions and technical stuff at once, as Victor is in a hurry to get far down south, made things really hard. All of those things, how much time it took to arrange my stuff, how the red Honda tipped over his KLR, and broke the expensive wind shield, how one of his his specialized luggage straps that he had lent to me got caught in the wheel to cut it into two, and how he worried and felt responsible for me, as he was the experienced one that introduced me to the whole idea, for made our relationship pretty strained. I have learned so much in an extremely short time, and there is still a lot to learn. So many precautions! You never know whats around the next corner: gravel, water, a car, tree, a cow... and riding in the city is serious. You can't drop your bike there. But people do. Its just for the others around you to stop as well and make signal for people that they need to avoid you. Scary as hell, though.

The scenery is great, as it is Colombia. We didn´t take the Panamericana, but a more scenic road. I heard great things about the state of the Panamericanan highway. The roads in Colombia are pretty alright compared to what I´ll have to expect further south. But there are also highlights that I´m looking forward too, such as stretches in Peru, Salar de Uyuni, Argentina, crazy Bolivian roads, etc. We´re also going up in the highlands more and more now. It should be interesting. Before you reach Cali, you have the lush ground fields and a sudden mountain range, framing in the horizon ahead of you. We entered the city before dark, in rush hour, as I mentioned. Sticking together, finding someone to show us the way, and reaching the Casa Blanca hostel, was Hot in the new geer. The first people we met were a family that were all travelling on motorcycles from Canada to the southern tip of Argentina. Its awesome. The mother rides a big bike and it inspires me. I have lowered the bike and when we went touring today, we found me some trekking shoes for 1/3 the price of back home, to make me taller and dryer. Cali isn't bad. I was surprised today when I found out that it was a saturday, though. I should be out salsadancing right now. Things changed drastically again: After getting to know this great family, the circumstances changed to me travelling along with them down south and on the eastern side of Ecuador, which I was bummed out for missing if we'd go straight to Montanita. I´m going to be functioning as the spanish speaker and teacher, which will be nice. Hopefully I can get the recipe on how to become a travelling family one day. So far I got the tip: start early.
After our little downtown tour, I was invited to dinner with some locals, and I walked some more. Tired now. So... yeah. Now there's a totally new travelling! And I guess I kind of said screw modelling, for now. They called me two days after I left, saying that Chevignon wanted to meet me the next day, and went "what, have you left??", even though I had told them repeatedly. After that, she said she'd call. This time I'm not surprised that she still hasn't. The company is probably bancrupt or was never a real one from the start. Just puzzles me that the girl from Laura's school was one of their models. The agency's website is shut down, now. Strange...

Goodbye, Salento.

Friday, October 8th, 2010

A demanding farewell. I´ve spent the last time here saying goodbye to this place I´ve come to think of as my second home. I took one day off work to do chores and try a delicious chicken almuerzo at Sosi´s. I met some local guys I´ve got to know, and a stranger just guessed that I was from Scandinavia, which is quite strange since we´re not many. Colombians know way more about Norway than Spanish people do, besides up in the mountain where one of the guys asked me if I drove to Colombia. Later that day I met up with the american guy that knows the sailor. After mailing the guy, I went with him to his hostal: Tralala, to see how it was. The owner had a birthday party, so there was lots of charming music and good food, even for me who crashed the party. I stayed there for a while, as there were many interesting people(and a delicious cake). - Especially old experienced travelers with amazing stories to tell. The owner of La Serrana is now taking over that hostal. Apparently there´s a dispute between that owner, and Tim, the owner of the Plantation house. They inform that they do not give out information about the other hostal... I feel there´s a tension that´s making my hair all electrical and airborn.
I left the party to hang out by the fireplace here, again, and there I got to know a girl who turned out to be from Brattvaagen! She´s a hardcore traveller by my opinion. She joined another girl who was travelling without money in Europe, for three weeks. The other girl was however travelling like that, longterm. Fascinating...

I´ve said my goodbyes to my colombian colleagues, have had lots of blackberries and fruit, and now I´m waiting for the internet to be fixed. I´m going back to Medellin in the morning, and I´m a bit worried for my back that the beds in the Los Nevados screwed up.- I had to lie in foster position on a hard bed to(try to) warm my feet. Not great for a 7 hour busride. Been considering trying out a new hostal in Medellin, even though I have several friends at the Pitstop. My bartending job is taken, and the manager said: "Sorry, but yay! Now we can get drunk together!" I think I must have been the only sober bartender they´ve had working there.
But yeah... My last night... People might ask me what I´ve done here for a that amount of time. I´ve done quite a few things, but there is no better or more simple answer I can give but: "finding peace and being happy". One shouldn´t leave a place when it makes you happy, but there does come a time when it´s time to move on to savour the magic of a place before it gets boring. So my greatest recommendations to you, little town. Just don´t think you´ve got it if you´re staying at a normal hostal for two days.

Writing this comment a few months later: My american friend from Bogota and Taganga; Taylor, went back to South America and followed my recommendations to Salento. He greeted them from me, and they still remember who I am. Those things are strange to hear after a a long time. Life goes on as before in Salento. Only without me...

Four days trekking in the Los Nevados

Thursday, October 7th, 2010

After a few nice days, where two of my friends reappeared in Salento and we all went dancing salsa in the evening, me and the british couple went trekking.
You start out in the Valle de Cocora, go past Acaime and up to the valley of the lost, where had arranged for a guide to take us to the finca: Primavera. We walked through different landscapes and weather. It took us about 5-6 hours to get up there, and half of the walk was through rain and mud. We were pretty demoralized and exhausted in the end, and had no energy left to avoid the muddiest parts or wet branches in our way. Reaching the finca was a happy bliss, but it was freezing at 3500m, as we tried to dry our clothes on the kitchen stove; the only warm place in the house, where an unfriendly woman would be cooking all day long. I know that, because I spent the whole next day in that kitchen, with my book and a blanket, reading with the nice kids and teaching them a bit of english. She did let me have a piece of cheese she made right in front of me, but when we returned, she wouldnt even smile or wave. There was no electricity in the finca(farm), so there was no point of staying up after dark. The woman was an amazing cook, and us being tired, hungry and cold, worshiped the food she gave us, however simple it was. It was cooked Perfectly!

The next day, after a horrible night of longing for sleep or a warm, comfy bed, it was sunny and beautiful. We decided to move to another farm, closer to the nearest mountain that we were going to climb. They told us it was 4500m, but a map said 4200. The other finca, a bit further down the valley, was much much better! They even had electricity to have light in the kitchen. The young daughter wasn't an experienced cook yet, but they were so much more friendly and generous. She took us with her to milk the cows, so I did that for the first time. Dont know why people say its hard!
The finca also had smaller bedrooms and a smaller kitchen, so it was warmer. We had a great trip that day! We stopped by another little farm, where we were greeted by the friendliest man on earth, giving us lots of fresh cow milk with panela, and coffee tinto when we came back down. Colombians really adore their sugar(panela is made of sugercane) and crappy cheese!
It was heavy to walk those steep grassy hills, and we even decided to make it a bit more difficult by doing some climbing. It was absolutely magnificent to reach the top and have lunch that high. You could really feel the altitude in your breathing, but it was warm enough to sit in your sweater! On the way down, I rode on the back of the nice mans horse and had a nice little chat. He was going over to our place for phone signal. The locals speak rediculously fast up there, but he wasnt too bad. After a late dinner with the family, and some of the dads friends that had come over to eat and sleepover, I suffered myself through another cold night. The problem would always be the feet, no matter how hot the upper body was. I found myself feeling homesick for the first time, then. After breakfast the next morning, we watched a goat get slaughtered in Halal fashion, and "processed". Then we began our long, muddy journey back home. It took us about 7 hours to get down, because the others didnt have Wellington boots, following the route to finca El Bosque and on. Do NOT go up that way. You will surely die. The finca does also not excist anymore. Muddy and exhausted, we reached the Valle de Cocora. It was strange to return to civilization. The only tourists we met up there was a travel writer, and a man working with www.ecoandes.org.

Its really nice to be back in Salento, and the dog Kira was ecstatic to see me again. My colombian colleagues too. All of the other people in the hostel are however new, but very nice. Today I've got a spanish lesson. Im trying to not do too much today. All I want to do in Salento is just to be here. If youre doing things, then time passes. Thats something I really don't want to happen. I hope to feel this way about a place again.

Salento - a dreamworld

Friday, September 24th, 2010

As for my last time in Medellin, I had a great one. I served as a brilliant wingwoman on valentines, and relaxed on sunday. I didn`t like saying goodbye to my friends, but we´d meet again. I felt good about travelling alone again, and enjoyed the beautiful scenery. I didn`t expect(although I should have) to find six people I knew from Medellin.
I moved down to the farm the next day, and Man I adore living there with the beautiful and quiet scenery of green hills, coffe plants and fruit trees where you can help yourself to as much as you like. Entonces, were making a lot of juice and luxury Bourbon coffee! Since I`m working on the farm, selecting beans, collecting oranges, picking coffee beans, clearing the hills with macheti(!), I get a huge lunch that with the other fruits and food I get, makes my costs of living equal zero. I don`t work a lot, and there is no pressure. The colombian guys I work with are brilliant, and I love living with the amazing animals. There are three Lassie dogs, three cats, a whole bunch of chickens(one is cuddly and awesome), and two cute kids. There is no stress, just pleasure of being in such a beautiful place. I wish I brought warmer clothes, as the weather has not been perfect. I`m waiting for sunny days to go to Valle de Cocora, whith all the wax palms. There are a great deal of great treks around that I`ll do next week.

Today I booked a motorcycle lesson tomorrow. Tonight we`ll be spending time by the fire place, collecting the chocolates we won, playing cards the other night. On sunday we`ll be playing football with the locals, which should be grand. I just watched some girls´ volleyball match. It makes me a bit nostalgic. Trying to not think much about my past and home, but it does make me happy to think I have something great that I can return to. I love you guys, and I hope you`re having a great time too :)

Monday, September 27th, 2010

I wrote this on saturday: Friday was truly great. After a great day, we went for food at Lucy´s, where everyone eats, and played Tejo, a south american game where you throw shaped stones into clay. If you hit bullseye, there´s an explosion, and you have to drink beer to play the game. Nice combo?
Afterwards we cuddled up by the fireplace with brownies, fruits and wine. A guy named Mike is just hilariously funny, and I can´t remember the last time I laughed that much. Most of the guys I´ve been hanging out with were a group travelling together, meeting up here and there. It was great to be a part of that for a bit, but unfortunatly most of them have left now. Today, me and colombian Freddy(my bossman) gathered lots of guava and other fruits and made a smoothie for everyone, before my first motorcycle lesson. It was Amazing! The instructor was awesome, and invited me to his house tomorrow after football, since it´s right by the court. We drove to Valle de Cocora, crossing bumpy, rocky roads with lots of mud and rivers. He let me stand while driving the bike and practice a lot of "stop and start in uphill", which was my only challenge, according to him. He said I was an excellent driver, so the month driving a scooter in Bali must have paid off! For two hours it cost me 60 000 pesos. Expensive but well worth it. The scenery was amazing as well. Now I´ve been cooking and talking to Tim, the owner, who´s working hard to catch some thieves that have stolen from the hostal twice now.

Writing on monday evening: Sunday, me and a friend named Laura went on a day trip in the valley with two of my colombian colleagues. It was a beautiful walk and good practice for my spanish. No lunchpack was neccessary: so much guavas and blackberries! After the long walk, I fell asleep in the sun, thinking Finally! We had another marshmallow night by the fireplace with some new people. Three amongst them are doctors, and have a lot of experience to share. Today was not as sunny. Me and an aussie girl were volunteering in soaking rain, picking oranges and blackberries. I´ve been a pc nerd since it´s so wet.. It´s such a shame! It´s not even rainy season, but it´s raining all over Colombia.

Friday, October 1st, 2010

Ahhh

I hate it when the internet makes you write things twice, even though you´ve copied your writing!

Well, the last days have been divine; sunny, beautiful, with cozy reading by the fireplace at night with baked sweets. We went to Valle de Cocora yesterday; to the hummingbirdfarm Acaime, and the outlook La Montaña. We tried the local combination of hot chocolate and cheese. The hot chocolate was good but the cheese was tasteless and Squeeky! Colombians Love their crappy cheese, and they definatly love sugar. Back in Salento, it had been pouring like it has been for two hours now. Earlier was good, though. Me and a british couple I´ve been hanging out with, cleaned trees in the sun for three hours as work. Working on the farm is just mediative, nice and varied. Definatly worth doing. And the finca is definatly worth staying in! The dogs really know me now, and wait for me even though there are others walking up the road to the plantation house.

The main reason I´m here is to read about and see some photos of Ecuador. There were a lot of people travelling south to cross the border, but yesterday we heard that that was´nt possible because of a coup attempt on the president, where he was locked in a hospital for 12 hours, before escaping, pissed off, saying he won´t forgive what they did The neighbouring borders were shut off in solidarity to the Ecuadorian president.

It would´ve been quite interesting to be in the country, although one would have no idea when you´d be able to leave again. I´m glad I´m not there, especially not in scetchy Quito. I have friends there that call it exciting, and others say they don´t notice it that much. Backpackers have been discussing and researching how to travel south, but luckily the borders are reopened, as they are no longer sure that it was a coup after all. We can all say phew, but we don´t know how safe it´s going to be in the time to come to travel certain areas.