Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Welcome to Argentina
Sucre - Argentina! - Humahuaca - Tilcara - Salta
I left the bike with a great mechanic, contact: Nicki Stumwoll: 76110039, Av. Bevito Moxos number 99. Sucre.
After a few more updates and analysis, the problem became clear: the fuel cap, which was a simple matter.
Humahuaca to Tilcara
I met a girl from the hostel at the busterminal, who turned out to be norwegian and have the seat next to me. She was continuing on a later bus, the 50hours to BA, so I had to find other border buddies: A canadian guy and a girl from Holland joined me to Huamahuaca and Tilcara. They had had to break out of their hostels that morning, as they didnt open the gates in time. They had even climbed fences. We got a cheap taxi to the bus terminal, where we had to pay 28 pesos to get to Huamahuaca. There isnt that much to do in that village, so we had lunch and walked around a little bit, before we took the bus on to Tilcara, which was a much more likeable village. I wanted to camp, but the others couldnt find tents for renting and no one was in the camping area. The first one we checked out, lonely planet recommended and all, had a drunk receptionist, so that didnt really happen..In the end, I joined them in the lovely, lovely hostel Los Molles, where I paid 30 pesos incl breakfast, internet, a great view and people. Gorgeous! As it is Argentina(eat after 11pm), we had a very good bbq buffet of chicken, with some wine, beneath the stars.
Tilcara to Pucaramana, to Salta
The next morning, we went on the 8.30 bus to Pucaramana, where the mountain with seven colours, was located. - nice. We went back, had great ravioli in the restaurant by the park where you enter Tilcara, and then to Salta, the same day. Salta was bigger than I had imagined. Very modern. Its so good to be in this different environment, now. I feel a stronger culture shock coming back to technology and wealth, than leaving it. The air is oxygen-rich, its green and sometimes I can smell wet asfalt, just like home. The city rains too much, unfortunatly.
Me and Sam checked into El Andaluz, for 30 pesos w breakfast. Right around the corner, they have amazing empanadas!, especially the capresse. We went out for steak that night, and I ate too much again, so I stayed up on the computer until 4am, applying for jobs, etc.
The next morning, we went to look for a motorcycle rental:
The guy had worked in Bergen for 12 years, so he even spoke norwegian. Really nice guy who let me testdrive a Yamaha 250, which is so quick and smooth to drive, its like a toy. In the shop, we met a french couple that we decided to lend a car with, instead. Normally, as I've said, I don't care for french people, but these guys are great! Its so much cheaper to rent your own car and go, instead of doing a tour, and you can stop whenever you feel like.
We had some great Napolitana for lunch: beef with cheese, ham, salad and rice, at the market for 9 pr person.
The first place we drove to was San Antonio de Cobre, where they normally super-overcharge you for a tour or a train ride. The roads are not always great, so it takes time. Got back late and caught up with sleep, before the next morning, where we went to the wineland, Cafayate.
The roads straight there are wonderful, which made me envious of every biker going that way. We took a turn left to drive along a lake called Cabra Corral. We passed by a bridge where they do bungee jumping. You could jump just fine without the bungee....
There are some really spectacular caves on the way, as well. - All red coloured and shaped by the wind. We had been in awe the whole day. Cafayate is pretty overpriced. We found one good hostel for 40, called Route 40(an HI hostel), with breakfast, and cooked pasta with steak, there. Just really nice to cook for people a bit.
The second trip went to Catchi. Hardly any cars, and no buses, pass by this road. Its bad, but wouldnt stand out in Bolivia. The scenery was not as spectacular as the day before, but still very impressive. The last part was what I imagined Argentina to be like: green fields with lots of horses and cows, rivers, trees and mountainous frames. We were all becoming good friends at this point, and had great fun.
In Catchi, we checked into hostel del Inkanan, for 40 pesos. We then went out for dinner. The police was continuasly checking that the restaurants stopped serving wine at 11, as there was an election the next morning. Thats some restraint, if you ask me.
We were told that the nicest route was between Catchi and Salta, but it was a plain lie. We made one stop to photograph the view of a landscape, thickly covered in white clouds. Salta was rainy again, so after lunch, we've just hung out in the hostel, reading, using the web. Everything is closed because of the election and it being a sunday. At night, I couldn`t sit down anymore, and went for a nice run.
We wanted to rent that Yamaha the next day, but it was raining until late. We then took the cable cart to the mirador, and ran back down again, before stocking up on supplies for the 18-20hr bus ride to Buenos Aires. We went with the cheapest company: 400 pesos. In the Lonely Planet, argentinian prices have almost doubled, everywhere, so don`t believe what they say.
We got front seats, terrible food and movies. But it was fine. We ate a lot of cookies... A lot! I couldn`t believe this was my last bus ride in SA. My last stop...
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