Baños, Cuenca and Vilcabamba

28.11.2010

I changed my whole blogsite that day I was so ungratefully bored, and the next day I went for a careful walk up to the mirador. I ate good pad thai chicken at Casa hood, watching the movie playing, then I was interviewed by a girl that was collecting stories from solo female travellers in South America, and went to bed. I got up really early to leave for Cuenca. The trip was amazing! I´m always nervous about riding, until I get on the bike.
I could see the big volcano by Baños spewing out smoke of its crater. It was hard to keep my eyes on the road. Later on, I passed by snowy Chimbarazo; the tallest volcano in Ecuador. I enjoyed myself on the great roads, all the way to Alausi. After that, the roads got much worse. There was also a beautiful place called Ibiales or something, that looked like it had inspired the first fairy tale authors, with the oddly shaped green hills and a castle like church in the side of one, bathing in crystal sunlight.
I reached the classical Cuenca right before it started to rain. I asked gringos on the street for a hostel. I met them again, in another town. The city was surprisingly beautiful, with its european architect. Found a cheap, unsociable hostel with a nice staff right by Calle Larga, settled down, got to know the owner of a Pakistanian restaurant, who gave me a discount, then went to the cinema and saw Eat, pray love. The movie is about Julia Roberts travelling, among other places to Bali, so I was trying to recognize where they "wanted it" to be set. Did see the monkeys from Ubud, and got a terrible craving for italian food.
In the morning, I walked around to see the pretty city, met some friends from Colombia, got money from Western Union, changed my tyre: 43usd for a tyre. 2usd for changing it, and had to pay 35 usd for new gloves, as I was dumb enough to leave them on the bike and drive off.
I wasn´t finished paying for my whimsicality that day, however...

The busride to Vilcabamba made me ralize how much better riding with a motorcycle is.
I left my bike in Cuenca to be able to travel after dark, so that I had time to enjoy Vilcabamba, and the beautiful hosteria www.Izhcayluma.com, which is more like a resort, only for 10usd including a breakfast buffet. The nature is beautiful, there´s a pool, hammocks, big and nice rooms, there´s a cheaper massage parlour than in Baños, which Really made me bitter! There´s a bar, tv, pool- and ping pong table. Around the area, there are so many great treks to do. Today we couldn´t leave the hosteria until 5, because Ecuador is gathering info about everyone in the country. So we had a huge breakfast, slept in hammocks, talked, sunbathed by the pool, had lunch, talked. Now I might go and fix what was caused by my whimsicality again:
After getting off the bus in Loja, sleepy and not used to having another set of luggage, guess what I forget?
I realized this after buying my onward ticket, and they tell me to catch a taxi to follow the bus, because the luggage wasn´t at the terminal. The taxidriver was strange, as he tried to charge me when we hadn´t pulled over the bus yet, and as I said I wouldn´t pay until I had my luggage, he didn´t seem to try to catch up with the bus until we reached Vilcabamba, and he charged me 15 usd for it. I told him to buy something nice to his 6 kids.. But he had also said that I was close to my hosteria, which I was not and had to pay another ride there. The worst part was however that when I pulled the bus over, my luggage wasn´t there, and the driver told me it´s in the bus terminal. 16 usd straight into the toilet...Plus having to return to the station. One says one learns from your mistakes, but Man, there are a lot of mistakes to make out there!
But done is done. I´m happy to be in this wonderful place, where so many people get "caught" for longer than they had planned.

3. december, 2010

Damn, was I right to say that. Izhcayluma just turned out to be my second favorite place in all of South America. Fine, there was some stress involved in the fact that the buspeople sent me after the wrong bus, and my luggage ended up in Cuenca, before I went to get it two days ago.
But I was never bored for one second, those four nights I spent there. Good food, so friendly staff and I don´t think I´ve found that many great people in one hostel before. My knee healed and we went first on the San Jose trail, among others with a french guy that we only spoke spanish to(good practice), then the next day, up the scenic Mondonga trail. There are so many options. I loved that one. So great to excercise again! I´m enjoying the fact that my youth and previous training allows me to slack off from excercising and still be able to run ahead. When you reach the top, you´re walking along a really thin ridgeline, with a 360 degree view of the green mountains around. I was trotting along, smiling and listening to "O holy night", of all things. It´s soon christmas. Did a whole lot of reflecting on that walk. My stay at Izhcayluma has really relighted my fire for travelling and enjoyment. I was walking on clouds, feeling partly sorry for all the people with imaginary chains. My heart is open to all adventures. I´m free. Happy. It´s not just about travelling, it´s about taking the plunge and realize the endless opportunities that are out there. How did I afford to do live this kind of life? How did I ever diserv it? It´s so crazy Not to do it. I really want to say thanks to my family for the chance to save up for this trip.
I took the bus back to Cuenca with a british friend, and stayed at the Cuencanier again, had some pakistani food and sang karaoke that we rediculously enough had to pay for. I had to get up Really early to make it to meet Victor in Arenillas, before crossing the border. That would become easier said than done..

Riding solo

Sunday, November 21st, 2010

Latacunga

I was lucky enough to have a mechanic at the site where my bike was parked, so I didn't have to ride through the town. He showed me how to tighten the chain, which unfortunatly needs to be changed soon, how to clean the airfilter and we shortened the kickstand, and made the plattform larger and more durable. After that, I was gonna go shopping to get other pants than my running pants. I was so happy to finally have a credit card, and Pow, it doesnt work! So frustrating, but I got money from the Western Union this morning. It did remind me of how it was when I was in Sydney, living in one of the most luxurious hotels in the city, without money for food the next day. But the receptionist of the hostel lent me money in exchange for my passport as security, so I went out with some fun australians.
The next morning, I did some chores and I tried to leave at the same time as Ray and Victor, but I ended up leaving on my own for Banos: first taking a wrong turn that forced me to go a looong way around, and it was raining and eventually freezing. Luckily the roads were wide open without traffic. I decided to stop in Latacunga instead, and I'm so glad for that! Its an amazing little town with surrounding mountains. I found a great hostel: hostel cafe tienda, met some nice people. Walked around the town looking at beautiful churches, the nice market thats every day, got to know some locals while trying out some new food. They give samples here too, and it makes me feel a bit bad when I really don't want to buy it!
I don't mind staying one more day. Banos is only two hours away, and there's a lake to see from the back of my bike. Happy that I left Quito!!

For some reason, I was exhausted this morning, and didn`t feel like rushing around town to see it before hopping on the bike to Banos. I decided to rest my leg and wait till tomororw, when there`s also less traffic. Was gonna go really early, but I don`t know anymore as I met a guy who`s driving up Cotopaxi after an artisan market. It means I`ll be going to Banos late, and I`ll probably get wet n cold, but I`ll go if the weather`s good.
I walked around a bit to take photos, and took Tornado out for a little spin to make sure that everythings alright, as he was a bit shaky when we arrived here. It was only the altitude though, and he`s good now. Rode up to the top of the city to look around, and also go to some areas where I wouldn`t really walk. Went to the market twice today for some fruit and later ceviche. I bought a big bad of strawberries, blackberries, a banana and a mango for 1,5usd in total! After fussing a lot about which movie to choose, we ended up with "the visitor", which was really good!
But yeah.. Really looking forward to Banos tomorrow! Feel bad for Victor, who`s in the hospital with food poisining. That`s one of the things I have to be really careful about. Miss being able to drink the tapwater, as one does in Colombia. Also miss a bit of heat.. brr.. Travelling South America and I`m both freezing and pale(w one blue foot though). What is this? Gotta get down to the coast soon.



Monday, November 22nd, 2010

Baños!

God damn! I like it.
I turned down the offer of a roadtrip up Cotopaxi, as I was more keen on getting to Baños, one of the places that have been very high on my list. It´s the place for thermal baths, adventuresports, trekking, horsebackriding, eating and being a true gringo. It´s very touristy, but I have been so far off the gringo trail for a while that I don´t mind too much. I only mind the "short trip- lonely planet travelling slaves", that doesn´t get to know the country nor the people, at all.
Riding to Baños was great. The sun was shining, I had my mp3 and it was a surprisingly short trip. Unfortunatly, as I stopped to take a photo, my camera appeared to strike! It´s the focus, so I had to accept that I couldn´t take any photos of this beautiful place, just yet. Baños is in a green valley of steep mountains. One which is a volcano that you can ride or hike far up on. Coming in to the town, I saw loads of foreigners, quadbikes, restaurants and hotels. I checked in to Plantas y Blancos, which is a great hostel for 6,50, met a guy from Salento, almost passed out in one of the sunbeds, walked around, had a really good lunch and afterwards a great full body massage with great aromas, hotstones and an included facial: total 70minutes for 15usd...! I had been craving that. I got pampered some more in the hot thermal baths by the waterfall: three pools with different temperatures: 2usd entry. We also went to a good restaurant with great international food and movies showing, called club house. Tomorrow morning are we going to do a kind of "swing" from a 90m high bridge: 15usd. Unfortunatly there is no bungee jump. I can´t do too much with my knee either. Frustrating.. But should heal soon.







Wednesday, November 24th, 2010


I went to the bridge to bungee with a group of Aussies. I was set on making it as scary as possible, so I went last. Actually jumping from the edge is terrifying, but there was hardly any free fall. When I went with Victor later in the day, he got the second jump cheaper and with a longer freefall(recommend just showing up on the bridge and haggling, as the equipment is already there).
I considered riding my bike up the hills when the others were renting quadbikes, but I had never ridden one before, so I went for it, luckily, as it was great fun! The scenery is beautiful and the roads were swingy and loco. We saw the tip of the volcano through the clouds at one point. After that amount of adrenaline, we needed some time on the sunbeds. Later, I decided to get another massage from another parlour, just so that I could say who to recommend. It was just me being really nice! Unfortunatly, the Chakra massose wasn´t there, and since I had already tried Prana(which is really good as for sents, the bed, hotstones, massage, oils, music and price), I decided to try a recommended chinese place. After a nice conversation with a woman from Urugay, I practiced some of my mandarin words with my massose! I haggled the price a bit, and got one of the worst massages I´ve had... I´ve had quite a few in Bali. It was a depressing waste of money, which you do spend a lot of here.
For dinner, we were disappointingly aware that Casa Hood was closed that day and the next. They have great international dishes! We went to Cafe Good instead. Yes, their names are similar. There´s also a Cafe Hood, to make it even more complicated. I don´t know if its on purpose, because Plantas Y Blanco is a popular hostel here, and there is another hostel with almost the same name, for people that make that mistake.
After checking out a few bars, among one a karaoke bar where I got to sing some, we shut our eyes after a good day. The next one would be rather boring..
I´ve been restless as everyone is doing activities that I can´t. I tried to locate somewhere to buy a new tyre, but I´ll have to do that in Riobamba tomorrow morning. I tried to figure out wether or not to go to Cuenca, as not doing that could save me several hours on the road. But the road down between the mountains are supposed to be spectacular, and I don´t really have anything else to do down south. I´ve been waiting all day for a mail from my modelling agent, as I got word that Exito needed me urgently.
I sent a mail saying that it would be good to know when, as I need to get to an airport in that case. Once again, it´s taking them forever to reply. I´m just struggling with myself a little bit today. I feel really restless, which I didn´t expect at all. Would´ve been different if I could trek, climb and horsebackride. At least I had a good big lunch at my favorite spot: the second floor restaurant at the right corner before arriving at the supermarket from my hostel, which is near the beautiful church.

Hola, Ecuador!

Thursday, November 18th, 2010

We left Popayan earlier than planned for Ipiales, which nearly gave me a heart attack, or at least it gave me an alsure, because I wasn't informed of the change of plan. But oh my God, the landscape! Wow.. The roads were really great too. I`ve improved my riding a lot as for taking turns and standing up whenever its bumpy or there`s gravel. I haggled us into a nice hotel in Ipiales, had a nice shower and POW! It struck me that I had left my passport in Popayan, too stressed to remember that it was in the safe. Our room hadn`t been possible to lock, so I had done that to keep it safe. Should've kept it on me, and learned from it! I did that the day before the border crossing, leaving behind a rather dangerous stretch to do by nightbus! So problem-solving was needed. The amazing hotel owner of our Popayan hotel, Pass home, who had already gone out of his way to be a great host, sent his employee on the bus there. So I had to pay for the bustickets and 100 pesos extra. It worked out, but it was another lesson learned.
We went to Ipiales in the morning. The church is very touristy, very beautiful. We didn`t stay long, but went straight for the border crossing, though I would've liked to stay longer. I was nervous about crossing without a licence(I have a police report saying that I have lost it), but I charmed my way through! The guys were really nice and one of them actually said: its just one girl.
We did encounter some drama in leaving Colombia, however, because they couldn`t find their temporary importation papers for their bikes. So for a moment, it looked like they couldn`t leave with their bikes, and that I would be crossing alone. After a while, they found the papers and we could breathe again. We said our goodbyes to Colombia, welcoming Ecuador and its cheap gasoline.

We spent the night in Ibarra, after a delicious meal: lasagna and strawberry milkshake, to great old hits. Finally something tasty!
The landscape in Ecuador has changed drasticly, and its so interesting now that we`ve had enough of the same green scenery. And the mountains.. We went up to lake Cotocatchi in the morning. There`s a beautiful village and the lake is stunning! After that, we had lunch and went to Quito. There was a scary moment where we were following the taxi that was supposed to take us to their spanish school, and the dad, Mike, tried to position himself on the side of the car, when the car was taking a left turn, and he bumped into the son, Sean. The bump caused him to fall on his bike, and he almost got hit by a taxi. He instead slid across the side of the taxi before getting back up again. If the taxi had been a Little bit slower...

The family had arranged a weeks spanish lesson with home stay, in Quito. That`s where my bike is at right now. I`m staying at the Secret garden, where my stuff has been waiting for me for quite some time. It was great travelling with the family. I learned a lot from them. Also a bit of mechanical stuff and mandarin. At least I tought them a little bit of spanish in return. I`m forever thankful for their kindness.
But its also very wonderful to be free and independent again. I can now go where I want to, and they said that I was ready to fly off on my own, skillwise. However slow I`ll probably be driving down to Banos. (That they didn`t say)
I`ve had dinner and met some new people. I`ve been missing the hostel/gringo lifestyle a bit. Its good to relax and heal my knee. Tomorrow I`m taking my bike to the dealer to tighten my chain and chop off 1,5cm of the kickstand to make up for the lowering and extra luggage. Don`t know quite yet what time I`ll be off to Banos. I want to go to Cotopaxi, but not with this knee. I! can decide that now. Victor and Ray are staying in the hostel across the street, actually. We`ve said goodbye quite a few times.

Group riding from Cali to Popayan

Sunday, November 14th, 2010

Still alive!

Today`s riding was great. We got out of Cali at the perfect time to avoid traffic. I had to get used to driving very close to the others, as we were seven bikes sticking together. I was "assigned" to be in the middle, for safety`s sake. It was really great fun to ride like that, because there was so much strategy involved in placement, overtaking, signaling and safety. The first period outside of the city is long flats, before the more normal turns, small villages, etc. As we were a big group, we didn`t get stopped at any of the military checkpoints. There were a Lot of them, and they all gave us the thumb up. The first hour from Popayan to Pasto is however supposed to involve a poor road, and I think the ride itself will be tough. My neck and shoulder are in agony today, so the extra day the others wanted to spend here will probably do me good. I also need to practice a few things like tight turns and picking up the bike without straining my back too much. You can either lift or squat it up.

We found a hostel in Popayan that had a really big indoor parking(that`s the most important thing about chosing a hotel or hostal now), for 18000 a night. The owner and his family took us to eat a good lunch, and showed us around a little bit. Popayan had a big earthquake in 1983, and a whole area just crumbled in the 19sec quake. He also took us to the most expensive hotel here, which used to be a monestary. Seing luxury like that again was a bit strange. There had been a motorcycle ralley in the area, and they all met up in the center square before heading off. After watching the huge bikes pass and talking to some locals, we went walking around the city, up to a church on the hill and down. We met and went with some people that were going to a video conference event, that was going on in Tokyo, New York, London and here. The shortfilm we saw was about the indigenious people of Colombia. Now I`m going to do something useful, and hope to see this nice town in glorious sunshine, tomorrow. It`s "so long" to Victor in the morning, as he`s heading towards Ipiales. We agreed to keep in touch and work on promoting free voluntary work on his website: www.dondeestavictor.com . Bike travelling on a schedule, I`m afraid the website catch up is just going to keep growing if we don`t push each other a bit.

So as I said.. I`m alive! No uncomfortable or dangerous situations today, besides Victor almost running over a dog. Doing this, I`m not really taking things for granted.

Becoming a biker

Saturday, November 13th, 2010

A new... twist..

I never felt that I was like other people, and this is probably the biggest proof I have of that being the truth. My heart was so open to everything, ready to jump into every adventure crossing my path. I was already high on life. My decision brought me deep down at times, but also sky high. I will never regret it.

As we came to Salento, we checked in at La Serrana, which was nothing like my simple life finca, but it had parking and it had an absolutely lovely country house feel, and an included breakfast. Victor met some friends from the Panama boat: a couple that was travelling by push bike, and we went out with them to eat. Right after we arrived, we also met a polish couple that had two bikes for sale: a red Honda 225 xl, and the bike that swoomed me: a black Honda 250 Tornado. They say girls fall for guys that are tall, dark and bad for you. Now I can join that club.
The next morning, after talking a lot about practical stuff, we went for a test run up Valle de Cocora's muddy slopes. I rode the red bike up there, and I probably should have ridden the Tornado to realize how tall he was for me. Just how that would effect my riding, I would painfully discover later on.
Our original idea was that we'd find me a bike in Ecuador, but here two bikes were, bought in Argentina, with all the papers ready to be transferred into my name, without spending days arranging a local purchase where I wouldn't know what I'd be getting. The red bike was considerably cheaper, but this if I'm gonna risk my life, then I'm not risking it for something that's second best. It's also a popular bike that shouldn't be too difficult to sell, with contacts, and it's easy to find and fix parts here. South americans are also fantastic at coming up with creative solutions. Bikes and bikers are popular in Colombia. We luckily don't have to pay or stop at checkpoints, which would have made traffic much slower.

On the way down from the Valley, I got to try the Tornado. It immediately felt amazing. To see how it felt, I was in the lead, riding a bit faster than I had, as there was no traffic. But too many things going on in my head, in addition to the surprise of seing a truck on my side of the road after exiting a turn, kept me from being cautious for wet leaves, and on the wet ground I tried to turn slowly. But it was too slow, and I slipped, terrified that I had just smashed Tornado. I could feel that I was alright, even though my knee had taken a hit. No one had thought to lend me knee protectors... I couldn't walk in the beginning, and for the first few seconds, I thought: that was it. No more riding for me. But they were all nice about it, and I realized that no, it wasn't over. We all fall, again and again. I've fallen several times since, but standing still, and learning from it every time. One time was when we all stopped in a hill, one time was just my knee being too weak to stop the tall bike from tipping, and the last time was crawling through the slow rush hour, taking a chance by following others onto the a bit too muddy side road and then driving too slow when going back up on the curve. For that and rough terrain, I´ve learned that you should stand up on the bike, which will make things a whole new deal. It's been tough and it hurts my confidence more than me. Unfortunatly, the one time I just tipped over was right after I had bought the bike, and it was directly on my wounded knee, causing it too swoll up like hell. I had to walk a lot around on it, comparing prices and buying protection, though I couldn't bend it. That, being tired, the fear of not being able to protect my bike and myself from falling, the question if I had just made a huge mistake buying an expensive bike that I have to take responsibility for and sell for less than I bought it for, the fact that I was under a lot of pressure to learn a lot of precautions and technical stuff at once, as Victor is in a hurry to get far down south, made things really hard. All of those things, how much time it took to arrange my stuff, how the red Honda tipped over his KLR, and broke the expensive wind shield, how one of his his specialized luggage straps that he had lent to me got caught in the wheel to cut it into two, and how he worried and felt responsible for me, as he was the experienced one that introduced me to the whole idea, for made our relationship pretty strained. I have learned so much in an extremely short time, and there is still a lot to learn. So many precautions! You never know whats around the next corner: gravel, water, a car, tree, a cow... and riding in the city is serious. You can't drop your bike there. But people do. Its just for the others around you to stop as well and make signal for people that they need to avoid you. Scary as hell, though.

The scenery is great, as it is Colombia. We didn´t take the Panamericana, but a more scenic road. I heard great things about the state of the Panamericanan highway. The roads in Colombia are pretty alright compared to what I´ll have to expect further south. But there are also highlights that I´m looking forward too, such as stretches in Peru, Salar de Uyuni, Argentina, crazy Bolivian roads, etc. We´re also going up in the highlands more and more now. It should be interesting. Before you reach Cali, you have the lush ground fields and a sudden mountain range, framing in the horizon ahead of you. We entered the city before dark, in rush hour, as I mentioned. Sticking together, finding someone to show us the way, and reaching the Casa Blanca hostel, was Hot in the new geer. The first people we met were a family that were all travelling on motorcycles from Canada to the southern tip of Argentina. Its awesome. The mother rides a big bike and it inspires me. I have lowered the bike and when we went touring today, we found me some trekking shoes for 1/3 the price of back home, to make me taller and dryer. Cali isn't bad. I was surprised today when I found out that it was a saturday, though. I should be out salsadancing right now. Things changed drastically again: After getting to know this great family, the circumstances changed to me travelling along with them down south and on the eastern side of Ecuador, which I was bummed out for missing if we'd go straight to Montanita. I´m going to be functioning as the spanish speaker and teacher, which will be nice. Hopefully I can get the recipe on how to become a travelling family one day. So far I got the tip: start early.
After our little downtown tour, I was invited to dinner with some locals, and I walked some more. Tired now. So... yeah. Now there's a totally new travelling! And I guess I kind of said screw modelling, for now. They called me two days after I left, saying that Chevignon wanted to meet me the next day, and went "what, have you left??", even though I had told them repeatedly. After that, she said she'd call. This time I'm not surprised that she still hasn't. The company is probably bancrupt or was never a real one from the start. Just puzzles me that the girl from Laura's school was one of their models. The agency's website is shut down, now. Strange...

Riding to Manizales, on the back of a motorcycle

Monday, November 8th, 2010

The departure was put off for a few days, as the motorcycle nor Victor functioned properly. I was crashing at Nicole`s place. If I haven't mentioned Nicole, she's an american girl I really got a long with while volunteering with little kids. We went to see "The Road", in the cinema, the other night. - Brilliant movie!
We did some outdoor yoga, exploring, cooking, silly- movie-watching, went to a small cafe with a thursday night jam session and book exchange(near casa kiwi), where we hung out with some other girls from the volunteering. One of them was supposed to teach me how to drum. I played beachvolley with some locals my last day. Felt goood!
Today, me and Victor were finally on the road towards Ecuador. The bike, Olga, was Packed and it was really tight. I feel really bad for him as he is hurting. - Further motivation for me to pay for all of the gasoline, as it also is his bike. The landscape is B-eautiful, and we were lucky with the weather. Not so lucky with the policemen that fined him for driving above 102 km/hr, when that isn`t possible with that heavy load. I was also watching the meter a few seconds before, and no way. But we were nice, didn`t offer a bribe, and kept on going. Because he was tired after no sleep, sickness and a crammed bike, plus rainclouds ahead, we decided to spend the night in Manizales before going to Salento.

Manizales was a nice surprise! I really like it. We checked in to the pitstop hostel, and I went straight to the Enforma gym, where I paid 8000pesos for normal excercise and an inzane rumba-class. Met some nice locals there, and other than that.. It`s weird to be back in the hostel-life, although I`m not very often staying in dorms. We had a late night after a relaxing jacuzzi session, some Delicious chocolate fudge(trust me, we appreiciate such tastes after some time here) and good conversations.

Victor slept in this morning while I went with some other guys for breakfast. We`re taking it slow before going to Salento, where we`ll be spending the night.

Medellin - couchsurfing and uh... modelling?

Tuesday, October 12th, 2010

Before leaving Salento, I learned some dramatic things about relationships in Salento. I also learned that in one month, 25 people had been murdered in the little pueblito called Circasia, fifteen minutes or so, from Salento. Only locals knew, and they could only speculate that someone was cleaning up the city for druginvolved badmen, because colombian law doesn`t really work, although police and military forces are present most of the time... the newspapers don`t write about it, and back home they today wrote about a sunnmoring who flashed in Karl Johan.

The busride to Medellin is beautiful... I met some other gringos on the bus that I travelled with, and went to the Pitstop hostel. I went out with the guys to dance, pretty late. I made some friends with a trailor, among them, a swedish girl I`m going shopping with perhaps tomorrow. I sent some of my stuff with them in the car down to Ecuador, because they had a lot of space. The next day, I did a nice sunday walk in the sun, and got to job offers: one, as a bartender, and the other, a bit more interesting:
Juan had spotted me while he came from a meeting, jumped in his car thinking: damn, this is going to seem suspicious without my female assistant. But I`ll do it anyhow. He gave me his card and shared information about the company. My first thought was: human trafficing! He`s been working a lot on ridding me of that thought. I called yesterday to schedule, and I went to the studio today with a friend. The studio was awesome! and the people were really nice. My friend knew one of the models, so that gave the final indication that this is legit. They don`t want me to pay anything, but they want 20 % of deals I may get.
We`re doing a photoshoot next week to make a "Referance book" with different clothes and looks.

I`ve been riding around on the back of my friend, Victor`s, motorcycle, Olga. We`ve done voluntary work at a psychiatric clinic; which was very interesting. Pleasant. Not always easy to understand the spanish of schizofrenic people on drugs, but yes. I decided try couchsurfing.org, and after five minutes of searching, I was just rediculously lucky! I`m living with a fantastic family of a doctor father(that will ask the hospital if they want a volunteer), a mother, a grandmother that does all of the cooking, a sister, a brother, and my host: Laura, a passionate girl that loves music and singing. This is fantastic for my spanish. I`ve spent a lot of time in two different universities now: first with Victor, doing his college survey, and today with Laura; for lunch and to watch a jazz-jam session. The house is in a nice area that even has a gate man, I get my own beautiful room, I have internet and they feed me :) How lucky could I get?



Friday, October 29th, 2010


I`ve been welcomed into this family that’s been joking about adoption, and I despite feeling bad that I`m accepting so much from them, I believe in their reassurances that they enjoy having me here. I really can`t thank them enough. I would have gone by, but with a lot of hardships with the little amount of money I have. There are couchsurfers that offers accommodation, but I`ve also been given food, transport, help with sorting out the bank, and a great deal of security. I`ve felt very much like being at home, in a different way than in Salento. The transfer to the account which they have given me, is still not complete, so I`ve been dealing without a refill of money for two weeks, but hardly spending anything at all. I`ve tried to help out with dishes , grocery shopping, keeping the parents company while they run a lot of errands, driving the others here and there. And I`ve quite enjoyed it, as well as it has been good for my Spanish. It`s great just being in a car again, even. Laura has taken me to multiple jam-sessions and concerts, as she is an active singer. The whole family has gone for Alejandra`s ballet performance(I then realized that it was my first one), we`ve all gone out salsadancing in a place called Son Havana, where we`re going out tonight to watch Laura`s band, despite being exhausted. It`s funny to see the parents dancing too. But I have a cold that`s just killed my energy today. The mom in the house is an odontologist that’s fixing my teeth; two holes and removing two visdomteeth, for more then ten times cheaper than back home! I`ve gotten to know some of the neighbours through rumbadancing(it`s the only exercise I`ve done since I came back and I`m dying from it). They`re taking me and a girl I met while volunteering with little kids(organization called Lazos), around the city tomorrow for the aquarium, science museum and some costume shopping for Halloween.

But right. That`s probably not amazingly interesting.. what`s more interesting , at least to me, is how the modeling has turned out. The register photoshoot went okay. They gave me “homework”: to read fashion magazines and look at myself in the mirror. Just like medschool! I arrived an hour late for the real fashion shoot because a stupid bus driver and several people on the bus said yes, when I asked if the bus was going there. Afterwards, the bus driver said: “oh, I didn`t hear what you said!” Ask again, you tard. I`ve now learned, very late, to ask the driver, let the bus go. And then ask either one or the two next buses as well. Today I did that, and it saved me a trip to the other side of town. But the people in the agency were really nice about it.
They didn`t want to put hardly any make up on me for the shoot. I was kind of hoping to be superstyled. The stylist actually loved my hair. What can I say? I cut and cheaply dye my own hair, and haven`t touched it in almost three months. - There you have the recipe for success. I took some close ups after being styled the first time. They would fiddle a lot with my hair and what to put on me, but for every round of photographing with new looks, they were all sounding super enthusiastic. I would just mix up emotions, try new things. The photographer would tell me some things to do and not. They all made me feel very good and professional. They sent photos around to contacts, and in a moment, I had several meetings scheduled. I`ve been to Chevignon, and the head wants to meet me. No one from the bureau has ever been requested by her, so that`s… cool. Surprising! Don`t know how much I`m able to believe it when they they say brag too much. I`m not letting them put too much helium in my balloon, so don`t worry. It's weird for someone that has never known how to look in the camera, and always thought of herself as normal looking, just with red hair. I`m even glad I never realized what a foul little kid I was, once. Now it`s just a hallway-entrance amusement in my house.
But here, I`m different, and all human. I guess that`s part of why the people I meet say they love my "ettitud"(said in the norwegian way the top model judges do)
We`re looking into the best way of getting me a working visa, so that I can fly in whenever I have a photoshoot, without having to give up on my travels, which I wouldn`t. Monday I`ve got the meeting with the head, after a meeting with a make up company called Avon. I`m optimisticly crossing my fingers for a photoshoot for them next week, and one for Exito, the biggest supermarket brand in South America, who asked for my sizes and is going to see whether they have work for me next week or not. Originally they were busy with one model. But I`m supposed to be heading south next weekend, so there`s a bit of time pressure. I extended my visa(had to go to the das three times), to have enough time to cross the border. Two of the three times, I met friends, so that was lucky, because waiting in line takes for-ever.

As for the family, again, it`s amazing to get to know them and get the inside view of a family living on the other side of the world. Both the differences and the similarities, troubles and love. The grandmother is especially culture shocked, and already a big fan of drama. I`ve taught them what a brownie is, made fajita, and learned how to make tortillas. Can`t believe they don`t eat a lot of taco here, so close to Mexico! I`m definatly visiting them on my trips back here, and I`m hoping to meet the last sister that`s studying in Italy. The job for Chevignon is in January, if I get that one, but there should be other gigs before that time. It`s an interesting twist that I can`t help but investigate. I don`t pass these things up. The one time I did that, when declining a job offer as a singer/coproducer in Melbourne, too early, it cost me a free trip to Singapore. Stupid, stupid girl!



Wednesday, November 3rd, 2010

Last days in Medellin

These days have been efficient, which I love. I`ve volunteered with the kids, been to the dentist, spent almost a day in and outside the science museum, where a big radio channel concert was playing next to it. I`ve celebrated Halloween, where the family lent me a devil costume. I`ve studied a lot of chemistry, been around the town doing and accompanying others in chore-doing, been to the uni researching and thinking about the future: It looks like I might just study for one year in Oslo and then 5 in Martin, Slovakia, instead of 6 years in Riga. Martin is not a big city, it`s closer to nature and there`s a bigger Norwegian society with more references than Riga, as well. It´s further south, close to everywhere for travel, right by the Alpes, and it`s a very cheap place to pay for your leisure time, stay and food. It`s good that I`ve got to thinking about these things. I`ve been to the cinema with my friend, Nicole. We saw The road, a really great movie that`s also really old. Colombia is so far behind for some reason! Inception is still in the cinemas too. Yesterday I was finally well enough to go to the EAFIT gym for two hours, and it was divine. I have to stop forgetting how much I love exercising. Your first day there is free, and it’s a big gym with zumba, rumba, sauna, spa, rooftop, everything. It`s been a weekend and a vacation-day, so any news from the agency has been… slow, because the assistant has been trying to multitask by doing both Avon and Chevignon on the same day, but I only have today and tomorrow to meet them, cuz on Friday, me and Victor are hopefully off to Ecuador! Entonces, I told her to arrange the meeting with Chevignon, that actually answers her phonecall. I`m not exactly going to be offended. I`d be more offended if they had said no After meeting me!


Some reflection about volunteering..

I wanted to volunteer as an English teacher for kids in poor Bolivia, thinking that it was important for them to learn, and something that I could do. But I´ve come to realize how the most important thing for Those people is not a well paid job, money or speaking to tourists, but happiness in the way they live. Because frankly, the odds of that changing any time soon are pretty slim. Bolivia will not rise from voluntary work alone, giving education to a few that might leave the country for greener pastures.(speaking very harshly now, so here`s a teaspoon) Things are going to need time and a lot of pull force. South America is like Asia and Africa; on the move. Especially Brazil, from what I hear.
What I believe we can contribute more with, without taking jobs that other locals could do for less than we sometimes are offered, is information and education that can diminish cultural disputes and give them the courage to stand up for themselves if they have been wronged. They need someone to trust. Politically, they also need a functioning law system and police, which one can`t fix alone. Even in modern Colombia, that has military and police everywhere(!), they have little true power, which is what as I wrote, probably led to the Circasia-clean up, where 25 people got murdered in one month. I don`t have time to be that person to trust, but I can start up something, and help get the wheels going. Direct volunteers, scanning online for work they believe in, that they don`t have to pay to do.. I´ve started collecting info that I will post with time.

Goodbye, Salento.

Friday, October 8th, 2010

A demanding farewell. I´ve spent the last time here saying goodbye to this place I´ve come to think of as my second home. I took one day off work to do chores and try a delicious chicken almuerzo at Sosi´s. I met some local guys I´ve got to know, and a stranger just guessed that I was from Scandinavia, which is quite strange since we´re not many. Colombians know way more about Norway than Spanish people do, besides up in the mountain where one of the guys asked me if I drove to Colombia. Later that day I met up with the american guy that knows the sailor. After mailing the guy, I went with him to his hostal: Tralala, to see how it was. The owner had a birthday party, so there was lots of charming music and good food, even for me who crashed the party. I stayed there for a while, as there were many interesting people(and a delicious cake). - Especially old experienced travelers with amazing stories to tell. The owner of La Serrana is now taking over that hostal. Apparently there´s a dispute between that owner, and Tim, the owner of the Plantation house. They inform that they do not give out information about the other hostal... I feel there´s a tension that´s making my hair all electrical and airborn.
I left the party to hang out by the fireplace here, again, and there I got to know a girl who turned out to be from Brattvaagen! She´s a hardcore traveller by my opinion. She joined another girl who was travelling without money in Europe, for three weeks. The other girl was however travelling like that, longterm. Fascinating...

I´ve said my goodbyes to my colombian colleagues, have had lots of blackberries and fruit, and now I´m waiting for the internet to be fixed. I´m going back to Medellin in the morning, and I´m a bit worried for my back that the beds in the Los Nevados screwed up.- I had to lie in foster position on a hard bed to(try to) warm my feet. Not great for a 7 hour busride. Been considering trying out a new hostal in Medellin, even though I have several friends at the Pitstop. My bartending job is taken, and the manager said: "Sorry, but yay! Now we can get drunk together!" I think I must have been the only sober bartender they´ve had working there.
But yeah... My last night... People might ask me what I´ve done here for a that amount of time. I´ve done quite a few things, but there is no better or more simple answer I can give but: "finding peace and being happy". One shouldn´t leave a place when it makes you happy, but there does come a time when it´s time to move on to savour the magic of a place before it gets boring. So my greatest recommendations to you, little town. Just don´t think you´ve got it if you´re staying at a normal hostal for two days.

Writing this comment a few months later: My american friend from Bogota and Taganga; Taylor, went back to South America and followed my recommendations to Salento. He greeted them from me, and they still remember who I am. Those things are strange to hear after a a long time. Life goes on as before in Salento. Only without me...

Four days trekking in the Los Nevados

Thursday, October 7th, 2010

After a few nice days, where two of my friends reappeared in Salento and we all went dancing salsa in the evening, me and the british couple went trekking.
You start out in the Valle de Cocora, go past Acaime and up to the valley of the lost, where had arranged for a guide to take us to the finca: Primavera. We walked through different landscapes and weather. It took us about 5-6 hours to get up there, and half of the walk was through rain and mud. We were pretty demoralized and exhausted in the end, and had no energy left to avoid the muddiest parts or wet branches in our way. Reaching the finca was a happy bliss, but it was freezing at 3500m, as we tried to dry our clothes on the kitchen stove; the only warm place in the house, where an unfriendly woman would be cooking all day long. I know that, because I spent the whole next day in that kitchen, with my book and a blanket, reading with the nice kids and teaching them a bit of english. She did let me have a piece of cheese she made right in front of me, but when we returned, she wouldnt even smile or wave. There was no electricity in the finca(farm), so there was no point of staying up after dark. The woman was an amazing cook, and us being tired, hungry and cold, worshiped the food she gave us, however simple it was. It was cooked Perfectly!

The next day, after a horrible night of longing for sleep or a warm, comfy bed, it was sunny and beautiful. We decided to move to another farm, closer to the nearest mountain that we were going to climb. They told us it was 4500m, but a map said 4200. The other finca, a bit further down the valley, was much much better! They even had electricity to have light in the kitchen. The young daughter wasn't an experienced cook yet, but they were so much more friendly and generous. She took us with her to milk the cows, so I did that for the first time. Dont know why people say its hard!
The finca also had smaller bedrooms and a smaller kitchen, so it was warmer. We had a great trip that day! We stopped by another little farm, where we were greeted by the friendliest man on earth, giving us lots of fresh cow milk with panela, and coffee tinto when we came back down. Colombians really adore their sugar(panela is made of sugercane) and crappy cheese!
It was heavy to walk those steep grassy hills, and we even decided to make it a bit more difficult by doing some climbing. It was absolutely magnificent to reach the top and have lunch that high. You could really feel the altitude in your breathing, but it was warm enough to sit in your sweater! On the way down, I rode on the back of the nice mans horse and had a nice little chat. He was going over to our place for phone signal. The locals speak rediculously fast up there, but he wasnt too bad. After a late dinner with the family, and some of the dads friends that had come over to eat and sleepover, I suffered myself through another cold night. The problem would always be the feet, no matter how hot the upper body was. I found myself feeling homesick for the first time, then. After breakfast the next morning, we watched a goat get slaughtered in Halal fashion, and "processed". Then we began our long, muddy journey back home. It took us about 7 hours to get down, because the others didnt have Wellington boots, following the route to finca El Bosque and on. Do NOT go up that way. You will surely die. The finca does also not excist anymore. Muddy and exhausted, we reached the Valle de Cocora. It was strange to return to civilization. The only tourists we met up there was a travel writer, and a man working with www.ecoandes.org.

Its really nice to be back in Salento, and the dog Kira was ecstatic to see me again. My colombian colleagues too. All of the other people in the hostel are however new, but very nice. Today I've got a spanish lesson. Im trying to not do too much today. All I want to do in Salento is just to be here. If youre doing things, then time passes. Thats something I really don't want to happen. I hope to feel this way about a place again.

Salento - a dreamworld

Friday, September 24th, 2010

As for my last time in Medellin, I had a great one. I served as a brilliant wingwoman on valentines, and relaxed on sunday. I didn`t like saying goodbye to my friends, but we´d meet again. I felt good about travelling alone again, and enjoyed the beautiful scenery. I didn`t expect(although I should have) to find six people I knew from Medellin.
I moved down to the farm the next day, and Man I adore living there with the beautiful and quiet scenery of green hills, coffe plants and fruit trees where you can help yourself to as much as you like. Entonces, were making a lot of juice and luxury Bourbon coffee! Since I`m working on the farm, selecting beans, collecting oranges, picking coffee beans, clearing the hills with macheti(!), I get a huge lunch that with the other fruits and food I get, makes my costs of living equal zero. I don`t work a lot, and there is no pressure. The colombian guys I work with are brilliant, and I love living with the amazing animals. There are three Lassie dogs, three cats, a whole bunch of chickens(one is cuddly and awesome), and two cute kids. There is no stress, just pleasure of being in such a beautiful place. I wish I brought warmer clothes, as the weather has not been perfect. I`m waiting for sunny days to go to Valle de Cocora, whith all the wax palms. There are a great deal of great treks around that I`ll do next week.

Today I booked a motorcycle lesson tomorrow. Tonight we`ll be spending time by the fire place, collecting the chocolates we won, playing cards the other night. On sunday we`ll be playing football with the locals, which should be grand. I just watched some girls´ volleyball match. It makes me a bit nostalgic. Trying to not think much about my past and home, but it does make me happy to think I have something great that I can return to. I love you guys, and I hope you`re having a great time too :)

Monday, September 27th, 2010

I wrote this on saturday: Friday was truly great. After a great day, we went for food at Lucy´s, where everyone eats, and played Tejo, a south american game where you throw shaped stones into clay. If you hit bullseye, there´s an explosion, and you have to drink beer to play the game. Nice combo?
Afterwards we cuddled up by the fireplace with brownies, fruits and wine. A guy named Mike is just hilariously funny, and I can´t remember the last time I laughed that much. Most of the guys I´ve been hanging out with were a group travelling together, meeting up here and there. It was great to be a part of that for a bit, but unfortunatly most of them have left now. Today, me and colombian Freddy(my bossman) gathered lots of guava and other fruits and made a smoothie for everyone, before my first motorcycle lesson. It was Amazing! The instructor was awesome, and invited me to his house tomorrow after football, since it´s right by the court. We drove to Valle de Cocora, crossing bumpy, rocky roads with lots of mud and rivers. He let me stand while driving the bike and practice a lot of "stop and start in uphill", which was my only challenge, according to him. He said I was an excellent driver, so the month driving a scooter in Bali must have paid off! For two hours it cost me 60 000 pesos. Expensive but well worth it. The scenery was amazing as well. Now I´ve been cooking and talking to Tim, the owner, who´s working hard to catch some thieves that have stolen from the hostal twice now.

Writing on monday evening: Sunday, me and a friend named Laura went on a day trip in the valley with two of my colombian colleagues. It was a beautiful walk and good practice for my spanish. No lunchpack was neccessary: so much guavas and blackberries! After the long walk, I fell asleep in the sun, thinking Finally! We had another marshmallow night by the fireplace with some new people. Three amongst them are doctors, and have a lot of experience to share. Today was not as sunny. Me and an aussie girl were volunteering in soaking rain, picking oranges and blackberries. I´ve been a pc nerd since it´s so wet.. It´s such a shame! It´s not even rainy season, but it´s raining all over Colombia.

Friday, October 1st, 2010

Ahhh

I hate it when the internet makes you write things twice, even though you´ve copied your writing!

Well, the last days have been divine; sunny, beautiful, with cozy reading by the fireplace at night with baked sweets. We went to Valle de Cocora yesterday; to the hummingbirdfarm Acaime, and the outlook La Montaña. We tried the local combination of hot chocolate and cheese. The hot chocolate was good but the cheese was tasteless and Squeeky! Colombians Love their crappy cheese, and they definatly love sugar. Back in Salento, it had been pouring like it has been for two hours now. Earlier was good, though. Me and a british couple I´ve been hanging out with, cleaned trees in the sun for three hours as work. Working on the farm is just mediative, nice and varied. Definatly worth doing. And the finca is definatly worth staying in! The dogs really know me now, and wait for me even though there are others walking up the road to the plantation house.

The main reason I´m here is to read about and see some photos of Ecuador. There were a lot of people travelling south to cross the border, but yesterday we heard that that was´nt possible because of a coup attempt on the president, where he was locked in a hospital for 12 hours, before escaping, pissed off, saying he won´t forgive what they did The neighbouring borders were shut off in solidarity to the Ecuadorian president.

It would´ve been quite interesting to be in the country, although one would have no idea when you´d be able to leave again. I´m glad I´m not there, especially not in scetchy Quito. I have friends there that call it exciting, and others say they don´t notice it that much. Backpackers have been discussing and researching how to travel south, but luckily the borders are reopened, as they are no longer sure that it was a coup after all. We can all say phew, but we don´t know how safe it´s going to be in the time to come to travel certain areas.

Bartending in Medellin: work, exercise, Drama!

Friday, September 10th, 2010

I`ve seen more of the city, as the architectural playground it is. I´ve been on a daytrip to beautiful Guatape, in the countryside, where the locals retreat in the weekends. It´s 1hour and 45minutes outside of Medellin, and it´s just so green and quiet! The town is full of colour and figures on the walls; everything from sheep to daysies. There`s a lake that`s shapes the terrain quite picturesque because they flooded the area on purpouse to have a water reserve. You can also walk up a huge, black rock, called El Penol. It was tough to climb those stairs in the heat, but the view was definatly worth it!

I´ve taken a job as a bartender here at the hostel, and I start tomorrow night. It`s not a busy bar and only three nights a week, so I think it shall be fun. I`ve always wanted to try to work in a bar, and it saves me some money. They gave me a room to myself, so I could actually unpack, and they`ve told me about a great fitness center right by, that I`m going to today. The people here are great! I also went for a run yesterday and stopped by a primary school, where I asked if they would like some help. I`m going back down there now to have a chat.

Sunday, September 12th, 2010

The gym was brilliant: fun rumba, spinning, kickboxing, etc - classes, steam shower, weights and a fingerprint entrance card. I´ve made a friend that has a jeep, which is pretty sweet. We drove around and talked about life, while he showed me more of the city. There amongst the massive shopping centers, that are a few minutes from where I´m staying. It was without a doubt the best Nike shop I have ever been to, f.instance. I start volunteering at the school on monday. I can work as much as I like. There was a birthday party here on friday, where I was the subject to analysis. Working as a bartender was pretty alright, but I feel darn tired at this point. So good night! I´m closing up.

Tuesday, September 14th, 2010

Bartending improved a bit after the first night. My patience has been challenged by some, but I´ve had good company, good music(chosen by myself and others), I´ve played pool and the bar has been chilled. I´ve been getting up early to go to rumba classes, and I´ve been down at the school, twice. They haven´t had time to arrange anything yet, and they won´t be ready before next week, so I´m just there talking spanish and english to whoever wants to, while studying spanish. Some kids taught me slang I doubt I´ll use in a class room. The weather has been beautiful, and I appreciate my hammock-napping before work. Now most of the people I know have checked out, so it should be interesting to meet the next group of people to check in. Tomorrow, after four nights in the bar, I have time off till the weekend!!

Aand if anyone is interested in getting fit and an interesting job, you can go to Bolivia and become a panther trainer. Basically you´re chained to it while it runs and climbs, two or three times a day.

Friday, September 17th, 2010

Wednesday, I killed myself physically at the gym with two sessions of rumba and thai boxing, and a steam bath. I actually bought some make up and an mp3 player, plus a fruit salad on the street that made me throw up when I came back. Very nice.. Very weird! Just watched tv, practiced my pool and then we went downtown to Medellin. Being in the center finally made me feel like I was in Colombia again. We ate dinner and went to the cinema, but the movie turned out to be swedish with spanish subs! So we couldn´t watch it, and with some belgian waffles w ice cream and berries, we snuk in to watch another movie, which showed "letters to Juliet", the biggest romantic soup of a movie we had ever seen. Horrible.

Today I spent a long time at the gym. After pool and basketball, I was going to have the night off and go on a pub crawl, but I was apparently supposed to work! The hostel is so quiet right now, that I´m Sitting and using the computer in the bar. Quite nice! I met my second norwegian today, who´s just next to me, having his birthday after 12. And

 tomorrow I´m going with my israeli buddy, Zohar(d), and two more israeli guys on a roadtrip to Santa Fe. There are so many israelis travelling after military service, so they grow fond of the concept. Travelling is addictive for a reason. The problem occurs when they stick together and only talk hebrew. A lot of backpackers don´t really travel. They just go from hostel to hostel, doing the most obvious tour things or just drinking the days away.. but I can see how it can be hard to do anything else if you don´t know spanish. I´d recommend putting in an effort to learn!

Saturday, September 18th, 2010

A dramatic night and a useless police:

Last night there was a murder attempt in the reception.

Murder attempt in the hostel

I woke up in the middle of the night. My good friend Zohar, was shouting. I heard the voice of the annoying chilean guy that ha

d been bothering me constantly. After fifteen minutes, it was clear that the police was there. In the morning, Zohar woke me up to go to the gym for pilates and rumba. He told me what had happened;

Gonzales and another guy called David had accused the receptionist for stealing David´s computer(which was on his bed), and Gonzales had broken a bottle. The breaking of the bottle woke Zohar up, and he was just in time to stop the high chilean guy from his third attempt of slitting the receptionist, Leo`s, throat. 

He had missed the first time, but he made a 8 stitch cut to his throat the second time, which would have been lethal just 2mm further. Zohar is an ex israeli solider, thus he was able to disarm him easily enough, and to keep him on 

the ground for fifteen minutes. There were several witnesses, and it was all caught on video, which the police saw as well as Leo`s cut. Leo was sent to the hospital, Gonzales was brought to the station, uncuffed. The others confiscated his passport and id, so he couldn`t flee the country. When we came back from the gym,

 Gonzales was sitting outside the hostel to apologize and get his passport back. The police let him go! We thought things would be okay, but on our way back from our roadtrip to beautiful Santa Fe, Zohar got a phone call saying that Gonzales couldn`t be stopped because L

eo or someone else didn`t press charges at the police station immediatly, but waited four hours, since he was in the hospital! They tried calling lawyers to file a lawsuit and everything, but if Gonzales has a brain, he`s a

lready flown to whatever country he can get a flight to.

So people are a bit upset... but we`re still going, trying to enjoy the colombian valentines day. Hopefully Gonzales is an idiot, and stay in the country long enough to get caught and be forced to pay Leo what he deserves. As for those who says Colombia is dangerous and full of drugs.. Once again, it was the tourists on drugs making trouble, and 90% of the country`s cocain is after all exported, to the US, especially.