With time and freedom, always comes responsibility; what do you do with it?
When you travel by motorcycle, you pay a great with sum of that freedom, as well as money, and receive a burden of responsibility and challenge.
When understanding what you'd be be giving up, few would understand why, until they do it themselves.
Friday, October 28, 2011
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
New York investigated
I brought coca leaves through custums, by accident. I wonder what they would’ve done if they had found it.
The flight with Air Canada wasn’t worth much bragging, but Jet Airways India was way better. – I genuinly prefer Asian and Indian companies for service. I met some nice people along the way and got to see the Toronto city – skyline at sunrise, so it wasn’t awful.
Arriving in New York, I also met some nice people that showed me the way, and one woman accompanied me. Unfortunatly, they all sent me to the wrong Penn Station, as there are two, and it took a while for me to find Nicolas’ place in Upper West Manhattan. It was a beautiful apartment with a river view, and I was beyond happy with it and my very nice host. Thank you so much for everything!
We went for american pancakes(picture) with free refill coffee. Coming back to fantastic food and coffee was a delight, though I was made uncomfortable with the calorie information. I needed to remind myself that it is necessary for the large amount of overweight people there, but I feel the whole fitness pressure which excists so much more obviously in New York, is just making it all worse.
In South America they eat tons of calories, don’t excercise much, but you hardly see anyone overweight. Because? They don’t push themselves to the limit so that they in the end feel like failures and have to eat the worst they can find just to underline the fact that they’re losers. They don’t belong on the winner side. Its a great tragedy, really.
The division between superfit and sucessful winners and the fat and ugly losers is screaming at you, if you look. Tourists are mostly blinded by the buildings, fashion and the places that have been in movies.
I am not a tourist, I am a traveller, and I have been outside the western society for a while, so my perspective is different and noticing. My eyes are now trained to notice, my head to analyze and my feet to walk, so I don’t think most people could have accompanied me on my cultural exploration of Manhattan. I was only going to chill out and see it, not really that interested in seing a culture that I expected to be familiar.
I early found that the culture couldn’t be more foreign. Its a bit hard to classify as it is the most diversely cultured city of them all, which was made me want to bury beneath the surfacing layer, which people normally only see on a trip that short. It was tough, but I felt that I was getting somewhere. At times I was disgusted by the western culture and felt at home with the latinos. At times I was mainly fascinated.
In bohemian areas like Soho, I felt more at ease and enjoying the lovely restaurants around Bleeker street. One day I bicycled around, as I was fed up with walking. Another day I jogged in the beautiful spring Central Park, which was filled with pink and white flowers and people jogging. On the weekends, its unfortunately packed.
I was enjoying how I could analyze people from how they dressed and the way they ran, just imagening their lives, daily day problems and expectations of life. I noticed how the walkers walked the same way, but the joggers all ran in opposite direction of me, even though I don’t think there is something set for that. It felt right. We are running in the opposite direction.
I did the touristy things like going on the Staten Island ferry, to rest my legs, because it was free and I went; man, the Statue of Liberty is tiny!
It was fun to see Times Square and all the tourists in daylight and at night. I can’t help it. I enjoy watching tourists, and I even photograph them, pretending to take a photo of what they are.
I found an amazing shop called Mystery Boutique, where I bought a lot of clothes. I did buy a fair bit of things while I was there.
I saw a bit of Brooklyn and walked the Brooklyn bridge. I pretty much walked all over Manhattan, though.
One of the days, I met Sam, my friend from Bolivia and Argentina, who took me to the most famous Dim Sum restaurant in town, and it was delicious!! Dim Sum is a chinese tapas concept where the waitresses push around carts of dishes where you pick what you’d like. – Perfect for me.
I was always exhausted at the end of the day, hanging out with Nicolas after his long day at work. Going to this city and exploring it by yourself isn’t what I’d recommend to just anyone. I regretted it sometimes, but I knew I’d be glad for it later on. It lead me to understand much more. Not many people explore New York in this manner.
I couldn’t resist when I saw a big sign saying ”Scientology”, right next to Times Square, and I entered, pretending that I was a potential new member. They sat me down to watch some introductory videos, and I thought; Damn, what if this video contains hypnosis? These people are insane.
I didn’t have time to make it to what their beliefs of creation were, which was what I really wanted to see, because they were closing. But a really nice girl who answered some questions about the scientology rumors, and let me try their stress-ometer, gave me two videos about Scientology which I can’t wait to watch. I also got a personality test cross off thingy, which contained some interesting questions which I reflected around while having a famous New York cheesecake(they’re unfortunately baked). Think my aunt Solveig should start her own cheesecake shop and kick them all out of business!
It was an interesting time to be in New York, as Osama Bin Laden was killed at the time, and I could go to Ground zero, where they were building monuments and a new World Trade Center, which is to be the tallest building in NY. It was also packed with news reporters and people reliving their grief or carrying big flags of celebration.
So that was my five days in New York. – A city which was surprisingly beautiful in its architecture. After SA, it wasn’t that crowded to me, as people work all day. I’d never live there and I’d never spend a long time if I had a choice, but I will go back one day to see how its changed.
Going to Norway after New York was a relief, as its far less superficial and cozy. – Even Oslo. Especially now that the weather is much warmer and sunny. All of the parks are full of people, I have friends to see and beachvolleyball to play. Its not all bad!
I also sold Tornado for 2700usd.
The flight with Air Canada wasn’t worth much bragging, but Jet Airways India was way better. – I genuinly prefer Asian and Indian companies for service. I met some nice people along the way and got to see the Toronto city – skyline at sunrise, so it wasn’t awful.
Arriving in New York, I also met some nice people that showed me the way, and one woman accompanied me. Unfortunatly, they all sent me to the wrong Penn Station, as there are two, and it took a while for me to find Nicolas’ place in Upper West Manhattan. It was a beautiful apartment with a river view, and I was beyond happy with it and my very nice host. Thank you so much for everything!
We went for american pancakes(picture) with free refill coffee. Coming back to fantastic food and coffee was a delight, though I was made uncomfortable with the calorie information. I needed to remind myself that it is necessary for the large amount of overweight people there, but I feel the whole fitness pressure which excists so much more obviously in New York, is just making it all worse.
In South America they eat tons of calories, don’t excercise much, but you hardly see anyone overweight. Because? They don’t push themselves to the limit so that they in the end feel like failures and have to eat the worst they can find just to underline the fact that they’re losers. They don’t belong on the winner side. Its a great tragedy, really.
The division between superfit and sucessful winners and the fat and ugly losers is screaming at you, if you look. Tourists are mostly blinded by the buildings, fashion and the places that have been in movies.
I am not a tourist, I am a traveller, and I have been outside the western society for a while, so my perspective is different and noticing. My eyes are now trained to notice, my head to analyze and my feet to walk, so I don’t think most people could have accompanied me on my cultural exploration of Manhattan. I was only going to chill out and see it, not really that interested in seing a culture that I expected to be familiar.
I early found that the culture couldn’t be more foreign. Its a bit hard to classify as it is the most diversely cultured city of them all, which was made me want to bury beneath the surfacing layer, which people normally only see on a trip that short. It was tough, but I felt that I was getting somewhere. At times I was disgusted by the western culture and felt at home with the latinos. At times I was mainly fascinated.
In bohemian areas like Soho, I felt more at ease and enjoying the lovely restaurants around Bleeker street. One day I bicycled around, as I was fed up with walking. Another day I jogged in the beautiful spring Central Park, which was filled with pink and white flowers and people jogging. On the weekends, its unfortunately packed.
I was enjoying how I could analyze people from how they dressed and the way they ran, just imagening their lives, daily day problems and expectations of life. I noticed how the walkers walked the same way, but the joggers all ran in opposite direction of me, even though I don’t think there is something set for that. It felt right. We are running in the opposite direction.
I did the touristy things like going on the Staten Island ferry, to rest my legs, because it was free and I went; man, the Statue of Liberty is tiny!
It was fun to see Times Square and all the tourists in daylight and at night. I can’t help it. I enjoy watching tourists, and I even photograph them, pretending to take a photo of what they are.
I found an amazing shop called Mystery Boutique, where I bought a lot of clothes. I did buy a fair bit of things while I was there.
I saw a bit of Brooklyn and walked the Brooklyn bridge. I pretty much walked all over Manhattan, though.
One of the days, I met Sam, my friend from Bolivia and Argentina, who took me to the most famous Dim Sum restaurant in town, and it was delicious!! Dim Sum is a chinese tapas concept where the waitresses push around carts of dishes where you pick what you’d like. – Perfect for me.
I was always exhausted at the end of the day, hanging out with Nicolas after his long day at work. Going to this city and exploring it by yourself isn’t what I’d recommend to just anyone. I regretted it sometimes, but I knew I’d be glad for it later on. It lead me to understand much more. Not many people explore New York in this manner.
I couldn’t resist when I saw a big sign saying ”Scientology”, right next to Times Square, and I entered, pretending that I was a potential new member. They sat me down to watch some introductory videos, and I thought; Damn, what if this video contains hypnosis? These people are insane.
I didn’t have time to make it to what their beliefs of creation were, which was what I really wanted to see, because they were closing. But a really nice girl who answered some questions about the scientology rumors, and let me try their stress-ometer, gave me two videos about Scientology which I can’t wait to watch. I also got a personality test cross off thingy, which contained some interesting questions which I reflected around while having a famous New York cheesecake(they’re unfortunately baked). Think my aunt Solveig should start her own cheesecake shop and kick them all out of business!
It was an interesting time to be in New York, as Osama Bin Laden was killed at the time, and I could go to Ground zero, where they were building monuments and a new World Trade Center, which is to be the tallest building in NY. It was also packed with news reporters and people reliving their grief or carrying big flags of celebration.
So that was my five days in New York. – A city which was surprisingly beautiful in its architecture. After SA, it wasn’t that crowded to me, as people work all day. I’d never live there and I’d never spend a long time if I had a choice, but I will go back one day to see how its changed.
Going to Norway after New York was a relief, as its far less superficial and cozy. – Even Oslo. Especially now that the weather is much warmer and sunny. All of the parks are full of people, I have friends to see and beachvolleyball to play. Its not all bad!
I also sold Tornado for 2700usd.
Saturday, May 7, 2011
Last days in BA.. In South America!
I moved in with Marcela, walked a lot around, thinking and trying to let go. I spent some time with friends, tried my first tango lesson at The Catedral de tango(20pesos for a class, and it doesnt matter at all if you dont bring a partner. It was great fun and not that hard, at all! (the very first lessons arent)
One thing I discovered that you could do is rent bicycles for free, if you bring a passport photo. The rentals are located by parque Las Heras.
Javier celebrated his birthday one of the nights, and the last night, I visited my australien friends from Cusco and La Paz: Michael and Jack. It was great to see them again. I went to a couchsurfing party after that, and that was it! I got on the bus to the airport in the morning, and said my goodbyes... I will miss South America so much..
I´ll miss the Argentinian culture of being laid back, confident, drinking mate, eating crossaints, steak, pasta, dulce de leche, alfajores and ice cream, without hardly any fat people. How its done, beats me. Even though I would never choose it, I will miss the way they eat dinner at 11 pm, start work at 10pm and on weekends, party till 7 am. Its just so different. Their political situation is however so unstable that they are not even sure of their own financial progress. Unlike Brazil, where the economy is growing, many believe that their growth is mainly an illusion created by inflation. I wish them all the best. I cant wait to go back and see the rest of Argentina!
So my blog will be edited, but not really updated anymore. My adventure chasing in South America is over, for now. I will write a little about my five day stopover in New York, as the return in always relevant and effected by the trip itself. Also because I need to...
One thing I discovered that you could do is rent bicycles for free, if you bring a passport photo. The rentals are located by parque Las Heras.
Javier celebrated his birthday one of the nights, and the last night, I visited my australien friends from Cusco and La Paz: Michael and Jack. It was great to see them again. I went to a couchsurfing party after that, and that was it! I got on the bus to the airport in the morning, and said my goodbyes... I will miss South America so much..
I´ll miss the Argentinian culture of being laid back, confident, drinking mate, eating crossaints, steak, pasta, dulce de leche, alfajores and ice cream, without hardly any fat people. How its done, beats me. Even though I would never choose it, I will miss the way they eat dinner at 11 pm, start work at 10pm and on weekends, party till 7 am. Its just so different. Their political situation is however so unstable that they are not even sure of their own financial progress. Unlike Brazil, where the economy is growing, many believe that their growth is mainly an illusion created by inflation. I wish them all the best. I cant wait to go back and see the rest of Argentina!
So my blog will be edited, but not really updated anymore. My adventure chasing in South America is over, for now. I will write a little about my five day stopover in New York, as the return in always relevant and effected by the trip itself. Also because I need to...
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Camping in Tigre
My friend Edje got sick, so he didnt come with me to Tigre. Zarena, a charming british girl, (or I have to say woman as she surprisingly enough is 34 years old), accompanied me instead. Tigre was packed of people and quite nice. The scenery around is like nowhere else in the world. Like BA needed to score more points.. its a summer-heaven of boats on the riverbends, sweet houses, flowers, hammocks, a few fake beaches. Boats carrying around groceries and supply, go forth and back, so you wave it in from the dock if you want something. Other shops and restaurants are also found along the river. The easter traffic made us have to wait two hours for the public transport boats to bring us back. In Europe that would`ve been outrageous, but all of the ones passing were full, and one could only wait, patiently. I'm sure it was more than two hours. At least its better than the small towns that can wait for days for petrol or rain to stop.
Unfortunatly, most of the couchsurfers had left, so we were only 15, but some of them, especially one guy, were Hillarious! A few of them were foreigners living in BA, but most were locals, and I stayed with one of the girls for a few days, afterwards. We made a big, I mean big, bbq. - Fantastic. Then we danced like idiots in the outdoor disco, with all the typical SA hits, beneath the stars. Its not often you experience such genuin fun, especially not when you`re the only sober one in the party.
I woke up to a bright, yellow sunrise and just smiled. I read in the sun, hung out with the guys, bathed in the river and later on we went to my new hosts place to cook.
After shopping, I had to take a nap on a park bench. An urugayan guy woke me up and asked me if I'd like to share some coffee. We sat and talked for like ten minutes before I excused myself and he kissed me goodbye. - Not joking about that. He really Kissed me goodbye! I had to proclaim that it was rather odd as we were strangers, and he just said that well, he didn't have time when I was leaving so soon.
That is just an example of guys' confidence here in this country. I was definatly not in Scandinavia!
Unfortunatly, most of the couchsurfers had left, so we were only 15, but some of them, especially one guy, were Hillarious! A few of them were foreigners living in BA, but most were locals, and I stayed with one of the girls for a few days, afterwards. We made a big, I mean big, bbq. - Fantastic. Then we danced like idiots in the outdoor disco, with all the typical SA hits, beneath the stars. Its not often you experience such genuin fun, especially not when you`re the only sober one in the party.
I woke up to a bright, yellow sunrise and just smiled. I read in the sun, hung out with the guys, bathed in the river and later on we went to my new hosts place to cook.
After shopping, I had to take a nap on a park bench. An urugayan guy woke me up and asked me if I'd like to share some coffee. We sat and talked for like ten minutes before I excused myself and he kissed me goodbye. - Not joking about that. He really Kissed me goodbye! I had to proclaim that it was rather odd as we were strangers, and he just said that well, he didn't have time when I was leaving so soon.
That is just an example of guys' confidence here in this country. I was definatly not in Scandinavia!
Friday, April 22, 2011
Buenos Aiaiai!res
To try to cover all I've done this past week:
- Hanging out at Millhouse with my friends who have been partying every night, while I call it a night. Just don't find it worth the money.. I sightsaw a Lot in the days, so I have been equally tired as them. There is just always something to discover in this beautiful city.
The parks in Palermo made me realize how live-able it is here, and the free medical university is tempting. I dragged my australian friend named Shaun, out to see the parks.
- We went to the japanese garden, which costs 8 pesos for the entrance and is tiny, but the food is however delicious. Then we went to the bigger parks next to it and goofed around in a four seat bicycle. I love that park for its youthful life: there are, especially on weekends, always people jogging, bicycling, roller-scating, landhockeying, playing football, longboarding, sunbathing by the lake, and at one point: also doing an aerobic-latin dance class in the middle of the street. These things happen here in BA. There has been a spinning class in the middle of the massive 9 de Julio avenue, for instance.
- I try to see as many streets as I can, but it really is nice to walk along that enormous avenue with a 250gr bucket of Freddo gourmet ice cream for 27kr. Life does feel pretty awesome! I love that ice cream so much that I yesterday bought one, finished it and went: daamnit, where's the nearest Freddo? I convinced a girl in Millhouse to come with me on a bus to go get more. - Worth it!
The first few days, I was indulging in Buenos Aires´ nightlife culture, staying out far too late in one club and another house party. The weather switched from hot and sunny to grey and chilly... bew..
One by one, we got “kicked out” of the nice America del Sur, as you need to ask the day before if you can stay another day. The staff is wonderful, though. The best I`ve encountered. They allowed us to hang out there and use the facilities as much as we wanted. They just didn`t have enough beds in the hotel look-alike hostel. We`ve kept it as a meeting point, before they'd move to Millhouse, and I'd move to the cheap Tango, before couchsurfing.
- I have been couchsurfing twice now: first with a female photographer in Palermo, then with a local in San Telmo. I am his first couchsurfer and he has been too nice.
- Yesterday, after going to my first polo match, (50pesos) which happened to be between the best teams in the world at the final: Argentina vs England(was impressed and enjoyed it, as well as the burger outside), he took me outside to the providencial suburb, San Isidro, for a family dinner. It was lovely! They were so nice and welcoming.
- Played in the friday football tournament, which is arranged by the hostels in BA, every friday at 5, in Parque las Heras for 30pesos(per person). You play three 14min games. I arrived late, and we were already two too many on the team, so I joined another team and ended up playing against my friends. - Such a traitor! I was the only girl, as usual, so there was a great applause when the traitor scored...
Other sports events:
- La Boca - Tigre!
I decided to go scouting outside of the stadium for tickets, with a german guy called David. After seeing the colourful and touristy La Boca, where the restaurants have free tango shows on the street, we met up with a local girl who had gotten David a ticket, and found a guy selling. Or he found us. But we had already asked the guards how to tell a fake from a real ticket(scratch it and its black, not white), compared it to the real ones, and asked the seller to be in a photo with me, just in case. So I got a ticket for a 100 pesos, in the popular section, where the atmosphere is Crazy and wonderful, while my friends paid 300 for standing below the spitting Tigre fans.
The whole deal has a reputation for being dangerous, but it is overrated. Perhaps if It was a Boca - River game, one should be more careful. People were just happy, singing, dancing, and smoking weed.
-Tried that line-balance thing between trees, in the park. I got to know some nice argentinians that way, by asking if I could try. What else... well,
- I went with Shaun and a dutch friend called Edje to see Recoleta: a very nice area.
We explored the student environment by checking out the xollege and eating some scrumptious media lunas(crossaints) in the cafeteria. Me and Edje are hopefully going to Tigre this weekend for a couchsurfing-camping event. All the locals go away from BA this easter weekend, while foreigners take over. Its just that he's feeling a bit sick, so we'll see later when he comes over.
- One of the nights when we were hanging out in the hostel, they had a jam session where one girl had been singing all night. Then a random girl asked if she could sing a song, did, and I was pretty much pressured into singing "fever". I think I need to learn that song properly. The real singer had to direct me through it, but it was great fun.
- I have also been checking out gyms. One gym called Well club gave me a free spinning class and the use of their sauna, and said that I could try others if I wanted. I don't know if that would be for everyone or if it was just because the receptionist also asked me out. Genesis is a gym that you get a day for 30 pesos.
- I have read a little bit in the beautiful library, Ateneo, which is ranked as one of the ten most beautiful libraries in the world. It is a converted theatre, playing jazz and classical music.
- Also just watched the Semana Santa(easter) parade outside: nice music, lots of people and lights.
- Hanging out at Millhouse with my friends who have been partying every night, while I call it a night. Just don't find it worth the money.. I sightsaw a Lot in the days, so I have been equally tired as them. There is just always something to discover in this beautiful city.
The parks in Palermo made me realize how live-able it is here, and the free medical university is tempting. I dragged my australian friend named Shaun, out to see the parks.
- We went to the japanese garden, which costs 8 pesos for the entrance and is tiny, but the food is however delicious. Then we went to the bigger parks next to it and goofed around in a four seat bicycle. I love that park for its youthful life: there are, especially on weekends, always people jogging, bicycling, roller-scating, landhockeying, playing football, longboarding, sunbathing by the lake, and at one point: also doing an aerobic-latin dance class in the middle of the street. These things happen here in BA. There has been a spinning class in the middle of the massive 9 de Julio avenue, for instance.
- I try to see as many streets as I can, but it really is nice to walk along that enormous avenue with a 250gr bucket of Freddo gourmet ice cream for 27kr. Life does feel pretty awesome! I love that ice cream so much that I yesterday bought one, finished it and went: daamnit, where's the nearest Freddo? I convinced a girl in Millhouse to come with me on a bus to go get more. - Worth it!
The first few days, I was indulging in Buenos Aires´ nightlife culture, staying out far too late in one club and another house party. The weather switched from hot and sunny to grey and chilly... bew..
One by one, we got “kicked out” of the nice America del Sur, as you need to ask the day before if you can stay another day. The staff is wonderful, though. The best I`ve encountered. They allowed us to hang out there and use the facilities as much as we wanted. They just didn`t have enough beds in the hotel look-alike hostel. We`ve kept it as a meeting point, before they'd move to Millhouse, and I'd move to the cheap Tango, before couchsurfing.
- I have been couchsurfing twice now: first with a female photographer in Palermo, then with a local in San Telmo. I am his first couchsurfer and he has been too nice.
- Yesterday, after going to my first polo match, (50pesos) which happened to be between the best teams in the world at the final: Argentina vs England(was impressed and enjoyed it, as well as the burger outside), he took me outside to the providencial suburb, San Isidro, for a family dinner. It was lovely! They were so nice and welcoming.
- Played in the friday football tournament, which is arranged by the hostels in BA, every friday at 5, in Parque las Heras for 30pesos(per person). You play three 14min games. I arrived late, and we were already two too many on the team, so I joined another team and ended up playing against my friends. - Such a traitor! I was the only girl, as usual, so there was a great applause when the traitor scored...
Other sports events:
- La Boca - Tigre!
I decided to go scouting outside of the stadium for tickets, with a german guy called David. After seeing the colourful and touristy La Boca, where the restaurants have free tango shows on the street, we met up with a local girl who had gotten David a ticket, and found a guy selling. Or he found us. But we had already asked the guards how to tell a fake from a real ticket(scratch it and its black, not white), compared it to the real ones, and asked the seller to be in a photo with me, just in case. So I got a ticket for a 100 pesos, in the popular section, where the atmosphere is Crazy and wonderful, while my friends paid 300 for standing below the spitting Tigre fans.
The whole deal has a reputation for being dangerous, but it is overrated. Perhaps if It was a Boca - River game, one should be more careful. People were just happy, singing, dancing, and smoking weed.
-Tried that line-balance thing between trees, in the park. I got to know some nice argentinians that way, by asking if I could try. What else... well,
- I went with Shaun and a dutch friend called Edje to see Recoleta: a very nice area.
We explored the student environment by checking out the xollege and eating some scrumptious media lunas(crossaints) in the cafeteria. Me and Edje are hopefully going to Tigre this weekend for a couchsurfing-camping event. All the locals go away from BA this easter weekend, while foreigners take over. Its just that he's feeling a bit sick, so we'll see later when he comes over.
- One of the nights when we were hanging out in the hostel, they had a jam session where one girl had been singing all night. Then a random girl asked if she could sing a song, did, and I was pretty much pressured into singing "fever". I think I need to learn that song properly. The real singer had to direct me through it, but it was great fun.
- I have also been checking out gyms. One gym called Well club gave me a free spinning class and the use of their sauna, and said that I could try others if I wanted. I don't know if that would be for everyone or if it was just because the receptionist also asked me out. Genesis is a gym that you get a day for 30 pesos.
- I have read a little bit in the beautiful library, Ateneo, which is ranked as one of the ten most beautiful libraries in the world. It is a converted theatre, playing jazz and classical music.
- Also just watched the Semana Santa(easter) parade outside: nice music, lots of people and lights.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Welcome to Argentina
Sucre - Argentina! - Humahuaca - Tilcara - Salta
I left the bike with a great mechanic, contact: Nicki Stumwoll: 76110039, Av. Bevito Moxos number 99. Sucre.
After a few more updates and analysis, the problem became clear: the fuel cap, which was a simple matter.
Humahuaca to Tilcara
I met a girl from the hostel at the busterminal, who turned out to be norwegian and have the seat next to me. She was continuing on a later bus, the 50hours to BA, so I had to find other border buddies: A canadian guy and a girl from Holland joined me to Huamahuaca and Tilcara. They had had to break out of their hostels that morning, as they didnt open the gates in time. They had even climbed fences. We got a cheap taxi to the bus terminal, where we had to pay 28 pesos to get to Huamahuaca. There isnt that much to do in that village, so we had lunch and walked around a little bit, before we took the bus on to Tilcara, which was a much more likeable village. I wanted to camp, but the others couldnt find tents for renting and no one was in the camping area. The first one we checked out, lonely planet recommended and all, had a drunk receptionist, so that didnt really happen..In the end, I joined them in the lovely, lovely hostel Los Molles, where I paid 30 pesos incl breakfast, internet, a great view and people. Gorgeous! As it is Argentina(eat after 11pm), we had a very good bbq buffet of chicken, with some wine, beneath the stars.
Tilcara to Pucaramana, to Salta
The next morning, we went on the 8.30 bus to Pucaramana, where the mountain with seven colours, was located. - nice. We went back, had great ravioli in the restaurant by the park where you enter Tilcara, and then to Salta, the same day. Salta was bigger than I had imagined. Very modern. Its so good to be in this different environment, now. I feel a stronger culture shock coming back to technology and wealth, than leaving it. The air is oxygen-rich, its green and sometimes I can smell wet asfalt, just like home. The city rains too much, unfortunatly.
Me and Sam checked into El Andaluz, for 30 pesos w breakfast. Right around the corner, they have amazing empanadas!, especially the capresse. We went out for steak that night, and I ate too much again, so I stayed up on the computer until 4am, applying for jobs, etc.
The next morning, we went to look for a motorcycle rental:
The guy had worked in Bergen for 12 years, so he even spoke norwegian. Really nice guy who let me testdrive a Yamaha 250, which is so quick and smooth to drive, its like a toy. In the shop, we met a french couple that we decided to lend a car with, instead. Normally, as I've said, I don't care for french people, but these guys are great! Its so much cheaper to rent your own car and go, instead of doing a tour, and you can stop whenever you feel like.
We had some great Napolitana for lunch: beef with cheese, ham, salad and rice, at the market for 9 pr person.
The first place we drove to was San Antonio de Cobre, where they normally super-overcharge you for a tour or a train ride. The roads are not always great, so it takes time. Got back late and caught up with sleep, before the next morning, where we went to the wineland, Cafayate.
The roads straight there are wonderful, which made me envious of every biker going that way. We took a turn left to drive along a lake called Cabra Corral. We passed by a bridge where they do bungee jumping. You could jump just fine without the bungee....
There are some really spectacular caves on the way, as well. - All red coloured and shaped by the wind. We had been in awe the whole day. Cafayate is pretty overpriced. We found one good hostel for 40, called Route 40(an HI hostel), with breakfast, and cooked pasta with steak, there. Just really nice to cook for people a bit.
The second trip went to Catchi. Hardly any cars, and no buses, pass by this road. Its bad, but wouldnt stand out in Bolivia. The scenery was not as spectacular as the day before, but still very impressive. The last part was what I imagined Argentina to be like: green fields with lots of horses and cows, rivers, trees and mountainous frames. We were all becoming good friends at this point, and had great fun.
In Catchi, we checked into hostel del Inkanan, for 40 pesos. We then went out for dinner. The police was continuasly checking that the restaurants stopped serving wine at 11, as there was an election the next morning. Thats some restraint, if you ask me.
We were told that the nicest route was between Catchi and Salta, but it was a plain lie. We made one stop to photograph the view of a landscape, thickly covered in white clouds. Salta was rainy again, so after lunch, we've just hung out in the hostel, reading, using the web. Everything is closed because of the election and it being a sunday. At night, I couldn`t sit down anymore, and went for a nice run.
We wanted to rent that Yamaha the next day, but it was raining until late. We then took the cable cart to the mirador, and ran back down again, before stocking up on supplies for the 18-20hr bus ride to Buenos Aires. We went with the cheapest company: 400 pesos. In the Lonely Planet, argentinian prices have almost doubled, everywhere, so don`t believe what they say.
We got front seats, terrible food and movies. But it was fine. We ate a lot of cookies... A lot! I couldn`t believe this was my last bus ride in SA. My last stop...
Sunday, April 3, 2011
Last ride - a finale with a bang
There were two argentinians in my hotel, unfortunately not going to the same place. One of them had the same bike as me. I must have woken them up quite a bit, as I couldn`t sleep longer than 4 am. I don`t have a watch, so I had no idea, when I got up, got dressed, had breakfast and loaded the bike. I had to turn on the tv to fall asleep again, until 5.30am. Its good to be at the border early, as there are no people. It opens around 6-6.30. The argentinian closes at 00.00 while the bolivian one closes at 21.00. Good to know, and I do know that border!
I was disappointed by how much dirt road detours there were due to maintenance. I can`t say how happy I am to drive on pavement instead. The scenery to there isn`t something spectacular. Didn`t even take out my camera. In the end, we had reached such high altitudes that the motor kept turning itself off again, but I learned after many kilometres of patience that if I drove slower than 40kms pr hour, it would keep going. I checked into The Koala den again, sang a bit with some music playing argentinians(its typical), met a couple that I have run into in every country I`ve been to, in SA. – For the first time in Salento, in september. I also met some italians who gave me authentical, home made risotto, wine and dessert, made by the mom of a guy travelling South America, even down to Ushuaia, on a Vespa! He had met the canadian family down in Ushuaia, too.
I couldn`t sleep longer than six am, so I got up and watched the first 1,5hour of the pianist. I`d have to finish that great movie, later. I had to get going to Sucre. Met a nice belgian guy in the hostel who tried to persuade me to wait for him, one day. I was too keen on moving, but I didn`t move too quickly. The carbureator had gotten too dirty for the bike to function right, so what should`ve been a 2,5hr ride, became a 5,5hr long one. When I finally decided to get a car to pull me to where I`d be going downhill, the guys asked me if I was driving solo. I replied as usual that they were behind. The funny thing was that the belgian guy appeared exactly in that moment.
He stuck with me for the rest of the trip and we checked into the cozy El Colon, in the white city of Sucre.
But something more interesting happened. Something I could`ve been without...
Being pulled made me nervous, as the car didn`t have break lights and I would always roll faster then the car and needed to use the back breaks to try to keep the ropes tight, so that I wouldn`t drive on them. The belgian guy said that I was doing a good job. However, for one second, I can`t have been doing a great job because as my front wheel rolled onto both of them, something happened that made the bike tip in 65kms pr hour, and we went down in a crazy crash.
I try to remember what happened, if my instincts had made me use the front brakes, which would explain why everything went wrong. It happened so fast, and while falling, also after, I was just yelling to them if Tornado was fine. I could see him almost beneath the car, wrapped up in the ropes. They kind of assumed that I wasn`t hurt, after that. My body was more startled than my head, as I felt like I had a fever. One of the guys drove my bike for a bit, instead.
I don`t like to write these things that I`m sure worry my family, but at least that was my last ride. How unfortunate that it should have such an ending, but at least there was some nice riding and company. In the end, after going far down and the bike still turning itself off, I decided to put it onto a truck, which costs just 30krs and takes 5 minutes, anyway. I`m just glad the bike can take so many punches. Myself, I got a few scratches and a bruised thumb, which really hurts to drive with, but otherwise is fine.
Tomorrow I have a lot of stuff to do before my 6pm bus to Villazon, where I`ll be crossing over to Argentina, finally! and meeting Sam, my chinese friend, in Tilcara.
I was disappointed by how much dirt road detours there were due to maintenance. I can`t say how happy I am to drive on pavement instead. The scenery to there isn`t something spectacular. Didn`t even take out my camera. In the end, we had reached such high altitudes that the motor kept turning itself off again, but I learned after many kilometres of patience that if I drove slower than 40kms pr hour, it would keep going. I checked into The Koala den again, sang a bit with some music playing argentinians(its typical), met a couple that I have run into in every country I`ve been to, in SA. – For the first time in Salento, in september. I also met some italians who gave me authentical, home made risotto, wine and dessert, made by the mom of a guy travelling South America, even down to Ushuaia, on a Vespa! He had met the canadian family down in Ushuaia, too.
I couldn`t sleep longer than six am, so I got up and watched the first 1,5hour of the pianist. I`d have to finish that great movie, later. I had to get going to Sucre. Met a nice belgian guy in the hostel who tried to persuade me to wait for him, one day. I was too keen on moving, but I didn`t move too quickly. The carbureator had gotten too dirty for the bike to function right, so what should`ve been a 2,5hr ride, became a 5,5hr long one. When I finally decided to get a car to pull me to where I`d be going downhill, the guys asked me if I was driving solo. I replied as usual that they were behind. The funny thing was that the belgian guy appeared exactly in that moment.
He stuck with me for the rest of the trip and we checked into the cozy El Colon, in the white city of Sucre.
But something more interesting happened. Something I could`ve been without...
Being pulled made me nervous, as the car didn`t have break lights and I would always roll faster then the car and needed to use the back breaks to try to keep the ropes tight, so that I wouldn`t drive on them. The belgian guy said that I was doing a good job. However, for one second, I can`t have been doing a great job because as my front wheel rolled onto both of them, something happened that made the bike tip in 65kms pr hour, and we went down in a crazy crash.
I try to remember what happened, if my instincts had made me use the front brakes, which would explain why everything went wrong. It happened so fast, and while falling, also after, I was just yelling to them if Tornado was fine. I could see him almost beneath the car, wrapped up in the ropes. They kind of assumed that I wasn`t hurt, after that. My body was more startled than my head, as I felt like I had a fever. One of the guys drove my bike for a bit, instead.
I don`t like to write these things that I`m sure worry my family, but at least that was my last ride. How unfortunate that it should have such an ending, but at least there was some nice riding and company. In the end, after going far down and the bike still turning itself off, I decided to put it onto a truck, which costs just 30krs and takes 5 minutes, anyway. I`m just glad the bike can take so many punches. Myself, I got a few scratches and a bruised thumb, which really hurts to drive with, but otherwise is fine.
Tomorrow I have a lot of stuff to do before my 6pm bus to Villazon, where I`ll be crossing over to Argentina, finally! and meeting Sam, my chinese friend, in Tilcara.
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Heaven crumbled
I spent my first day in Tupiza, mostly online, because of the selling process. Then I met the potential buyer from La Paz, who had been all confused about what bike he was
going to see and to what price. He tried to get me to sell for 3100usd, but I said no. I went out for pizza with a big israeli group. They had to remind themselves often, but they
did put in an effort to stop speaking hebrew. Pizza in Tupiza is really good.
The next morning, I went to visit my danish friend, Anne Sofie, who had been sick for a week in Sucre. Unfortunately, she was leaving later on. Her hostel, San Refugio, is where I moved later on, as it costs 35 bolivianos, with a kitchen and pool access to the Mitru pool. I mostly did chores like bike maintenance with a mechanic who had the same bike, made a copy of my key, uploaded photos, arranged horseback riding, hung out with an israeli guy that I let try my bike for a bit. We watched the sunset with cookies and milk, then a bbc documentary about life and animals. How a octopus mother starves herself for her children to be safe in their eggs, really fascinates me.
I did the horseback riding through the same hostel, Valle Hermosa, where I was staying at because it was the hostel of my nice car company to Tupiza. I paid 200 bolivianos for 9 hours, but I got a horse that I didn`t like at first, that didn`t care for me. - Such a shame! The first part is very slow trotting in strong sun, yet the rain-weathered, red rock formations and caves are cool. He dropped us off to go exploring in the caverns, which was a treat for climbing enthusiasts. - just me, this time.
As my group was just a french couple(sorry, but french people are the least friendly people I meet. Most don`t even Try to speak to me), it was nice when we reached a river and a lovely resting place where other groups also were resting. We continued on with a few of them, and it was much more fun from then on! We were river crossing and galopping a lot. The sun wasn`t frying and the landscape was great. My horse turned out to have quite the personality. He would always want to be first, and pass by people on the right side, without regard for the spikey bushes I had to fight my way through. He was growing on me, though.
The riding seriously hurts your butt, so be warned. But do it!
Later, I went for a swim and some gnocchi with a nice chinese guy I met while horseback riding. Apparently there aren`t a lot of chinese backpackers, which makes him
kind of famous. Funny.
I think one of the main things that separate a tourist from a traveller is that the traveller goes to bed exhausted, while the tourist has every comfort perfectly planned. A traveller travels for too much time to be able to or desire it. And there also develops a lot of duties and tasks that comes along with it, especially with riding, though.
I didn`t stress this morning. It was a beautiful day and I was riding mostly on pavement. I was going to be in Argentina soon and eat steak in Tilcara, drink mate, eat too much dulce de leche, learn a new culture and be... happy. I got caught by surprise when they told me I needed the cedula to be in my name, and that I couldn`t enter Argentina, couldn`t sell my bike with papers, couldn`t do anything. They told me that I might get more than 1000usd for it, but not in this town. I was devastated, and it was nice that Sam was around for support. He was going out of his way to try and help and I thank you so much for that! In the end I had to stamp myself back into Bolivia, buy a ticket to Tijara, where you could sell a bike without a plate for much more, and find somewhere to put my luggage and the bike. I wasn`t up for riding the offroad to Tijara. I found a nice hotel with an old, sympathetic man that let me leave my things there. I then went to the internet cafe to brainstorm what I could do with Victor. He encouraged me to try again, and I am tonight. One`s supposed to be able to enter because I don`t need to import it when its argentinian. I`m gonna wait to the other people have gotten off their shifts and make it clear that the bike Is argentinian. Its risky to go late, but I`m not gonna drive far. Tomorrow, the same people might be working again.
Please, please, please!!
Btw: next to the bus station, a woman sells the best empanadas in the world.
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