New Years and a new job; teaching?

January 2011

The days after christmas are about family gatherings, and eating far too much lovely food.

It's hard to stay so much indoors, and I get that old restlessness that I used to get before I left. Thought it was just a mental thing, but its apparently tied to the place. Every moment needs to be filled with productivity or well, Fun! Going for a walk, thinking or conversating just doesn't cut it here. But as the year began, I'm back to being busy busy busy, and I like it.

I spent my last days of 2010 with friends and family. We celebrated my dads birthday early. My mom bought them a trip to the Canary Islands in january, as a surprise she couldn't keep secret. This year, New Years eve was a smaller celebration than Sydney. A lot of friends had gone to Bjorli. I enjoyed a family dinner, and then playing shorthead with four girlfriends till five am.
At midnight, I was in a bliss, as usual, and stayed out to watch the rockets as the others scurried on inside. The ground was all water covered ice, and it didn't really surprise anyone that I was the first to go down.

So the best year of my life was over. With the exception of 2006, life has just gotten better and better, and I think it has to stop soon. I don't want to ask anymore now. If it gets better than this, I might not ever be able to join in the lines and become a civilized person!

These days have been a bit more interesting. I got a job at my first job interview and tought 7th graders in music and english. Its always strange for me to be "the grown up". The kids make me feel old. After a while, I felt more like a superhuman, as to them I was great at everything! Kids tell the truth, after all.

I'm pretty happy with the way things have turned out.

7. january 2011:

I was pretty exhausted today. The workday was tough, and I was already beat after sparring at boxing, the night before. I was reminded how I have to charge to even get close to a guy with long arms. I ran through the shower pretty much, to catch a ride to town. I met some friends for the Hoffmann Pub quiz, which is rediculously popular on thursdays, and way too crowded. I had never been at the quiz with a more intelligent team(I tell you, they're smart). We still lost pretty profoundly to a bunch of cheating goons, naturally, but had fun staying up a bit late.

9. january:

I got news that my bike is waiting for me in Arequipa, and has been coping well with the altitude of riding to Cusco and down again. Tornado has gone that way before, so I'm hoping he'll be able to manage fine in my rookie hands(I'm reading instructions and blogs online, plus watching youtube videos about bike maintenance). H

Surprise, Norway!

I was going mad.
What had I done? In Colombia I spent some time feeling homesick, and I decided to book a flight home for christmas; 1,5month. I'd work and save up some money, meet my friends and family for christmas, spend my birthday and new years. I'd recharge my batteries to fully appreciate how wonderful South America is, instead of getting used to it all, and I'd be thinking a lot about what to do in the future. Travel more? Study? Where, what?
Only my parents knew that I was coming. I was thrilled, but in the last weeks I had changed my mind(!) all wired on the joys of travel. I wanted to go to the jungle instead. Returning home, that long long way, I was thinking that I was out of my mind. I was missing my bike and SA already. This "perfect" world just didn't fit me, anymore. People saw me but they don't see what I was bearing with me. - Memories that now seem like lovely dreams. I saw that. I did that. In the beginning I would listen in on some conversations of ordinary people, living their ordinary lives, and I'd be screaming inside. I needed to be pulled back to earth, but I didn't want to. I'm so far from being ready to start school, get an apartment and a job, etc. But I was only back here for a short time, and I write my own future. No one can forcing me into an A4 life, even though I feel "the pull" like everyone else.

I paid 7000nok for a trip/return with Iberia and Tyrolean air(never heard of before). It took me more than 30 hours to reach Oslo. I killed time, getting to know a nice painter, coming from Kairo. Norwegians aren't that cold. It's just a matter of breaking the ice at first, and I've had some practice. I got to Gardemoen airport and shockingly realized that my credit card was missing. I only had the four that don't work. Pissed off at myself and a bitchy information receptionist that had snapped at me for using the stationary phone she had offered to me, for too long, trying to solve the problem of getting from downtown as I didn't have enough dollars for two bus tickets. (they don't Really take peruvian pesos)
The last bus had left at 1 am, and I was stuck. A taxi costs 800NOK, which was out of the question. I found a nice, fake fireplace at the airport and finished my book "on the road", and I was both travelling and starving together with the character. I couldn't afford food. I decided to check every Possible place in the bag, and discovered my credit card in the strap pocket, where I never put anything. I even made the receptionist cheer, as I was too thrilled to despise her.

At 6 am I rang on the apartment complex, telling my sister that I was one of her friends, Kirsti, and that she had to let me in because it was very important. Terrified what terrible event had happened for her to come all this way in the middle of the night, seeing me was a surprising relief. I love these things...

We spent the next day shopping with her friends, and I met my friend, Linn, in a cafe. I also went home to my hometown, that night, after a cheap shop. I met several friends at the airport, and shared the sighes of our plane not being able to land because of the snow, so that we had to land in Molde; 1,45min away by bus, without our luggage, which they left behind to be able to land in Ålesund... again, we were starving. If you're delayed by more than 1,5hour, you can really demand the airline to pay for a meal.

My brother, unaware that I was coming, had called my sister earlier saying that my parents had gone crazy for trying to make him come all the way to the airport to meet her, when they had seen each other only a week ago!
He was even more puzzled when she said he coouuld come, and not that he shouldn't bother. Luckily, he didn't. He picked us up at the bus station at 2am instead. It took him more than ten seconds to realize who was skipping towards him in the snow. He had been thinking that Hanne looked very much like me, and with a tilted head, he didn't understand until I spoke. That very slow reaction is the one I've been receiving most often. Also from my friends and grandpa, who I suspect is reading this :) I'm pretty impressed and proud to have a grandfather of 92 that uses a laptop. It was really great to see you again!

After some family time, me and my brother went out for kicks with some friends and ended up staying out all night, acting more retarded than drunk people, and having a blast. I went with him in the morning to watch him box at a gathering. He won silver in the nationals for kickboxing a few weeks ago, so its very fun to watch. In the evening, I surprised some more friends at a floor-party(new apartment, no furniture, many girls). This is my first time to have a little break and write, as I enjoy the access of Spotify and the sun setting beautifully behind the snowcapped mountainrange. I was worried that it wouldn't anymore, but it does still leave me in awe. I don't know about the future. But I know I'm happy again. And Man, I love having a fridge and cabinet full of food! Especially at christmas, when one eats rediculous amounts.

(decorating the gingerbread house and hearts)

I had a few enjoyable days with friends and family. I went boxing, where I had my brother and the trainer coaching me. I haven't boxed for a year, almost..

The day before christmas, my sister came home. She said hello to everyone, and I appeared in the door, pretending like nothing was up. This time, my whole family got to whitness the shock.

The days were traditional as always: eating, decorating my grandfather's house, the big gingerbread hearts we put up in the windows, the gingerbread house, the christmas tree. And on christmas day, the 24th, we watched the czech cinderella(like every norwegian on the 24th), went to church, had christmas dinner, dessert, and when I was really full, even more candy and cake, after opening the presents. I got clothes, money and the monthly gym membership.

The following day, the whole family went cross country skiing in a two hour long sunset, before turkey time. (Christmas porridge)

Here are some reasons why I went home: (the photos are worth watching. I looked at them all)

http://www.vg.no/protokoll/?pid=838

The 26th is the biggest party night of all year, here, and everyone goes out. This isn't a big city, so you can meet almost everyone you know. It was a great night! At 00.00, my birthday began, and I was carried around in the air, on the crowded dancefloor, dancing to "Barbara Streisand". I also got everything for free! Today, I get spoiled some more. We're making taco-tapas tonight and I'm going out to a bar called Vega to watch a band play, where I know one of the guys.

(me and my sister, Hanne)

when we went cross country skiing

Lima

13. des. 2010

(San Bartolo)

We did get going, after salsa dancing like crazy in an empty bar. The ride was flawless apart from some patches of roadwork, where we were allowed through the blockage to mind the big trucks. I found myself in a pretty deep ditch, and trying to get out the bike slipped and I once again! screwed up my knee, which is huge again. So it was Back on penicillin! I enjoyed riding with the couple, who were great people that gave me something new to investigate: conflictology. Something that allows them a freelance, well paid, challenging, varied job that theres always a need for.

We fought our way through the crazy panamerican highway in Lima. We tried to avoid the traffic, but it wasn't possible because they were building a metro. It was hot, buzzing, dusty, and it was all for themselves, meanwhile we were trying to stick together. The couple was hit by another car, luckily without damage. They were however nearly hit in a quite high speed, but made a avoiding left turn just in time. In the middle of this madness, a local guy on his own motorbike with a flag on the back, told us that he was going to help us out. We staggered through rows of cars, drove up on sideblocks, asked and searched for another road with less traffic. In the end we made it through, back on the Panamerican highway, after taking some photos with our fantastic guide->, we were moving again. We passed by the beautiful beachtowns of Lurin, punta Hermosa, Santa Maria del mar, and then our destination: San Bartolo. I had missionary contacts there that knew of a safe hostel to leave my bike as I explored the Miraflores area in Lima.

We had a last coffee before they continued towards Ica, and I bargained down a nice hotel room for half price. I checked out Miraflores in the morning, which is a modern, urban and beautiful part of Lima. The streets are wide, clean and framed in tall buildings and international chains like Starbucks. Lima is not a popular city among travellers, with its 9 million citizens and thin, white fog, which makes everything look a bit dirty and colorless. But the sun wasn't that weak, as I took a nap on a stone fence that was shaped like waves, and to me: as a perfect leaning chair. I enjoyed the sun, breeze and the sound of big waves below the cliffs, where wetsuited surfers were riding, like I wish I was as well. But with a bad knee, there aint that much to do but be. That's what we do. We are being, and that's all we need to do.

I'm a sucker for ice cream samples, and I found the most amazing ice cream place next to the main park in Miraflores. facing the ocean, it's on the left side, at the corner of the park. I tried the famous chicharron sandwich(perfectly okay) that two of my friends had recommended, after walking around with a nice couple from Chicago, I had gotten to know, that was on a honeymoon. We were staying at the garden hostel(6dollars for a dorm w free breakfast), which is a cheaper and quiter option to the party hostels like Loki and Kokopelli. It is hard to spot, on the corner by the church, but its worth a little searching as its greatly located two blocks from a market with fruit and lots of good seafood lunches, in addition to being two houndred meters from the coastline. It was a shame that the birthdayparty got cancelled, but I had a good time and didn't mind the big city. I didn't go into the other parts like the historical center, which is UNESCO'ed, that probably would have been pretty neat.

Huancacho, Trujillo - Huarmey

9 december:

I liked Huancacho: the beach is looong, and along it, flows the worlds longest "left-sided" wave. It`s also where they have those famous strawboats for fishing and alternative surf-paddling, called . The men are too aggressive. Not just to tourists, but a local woman I was talking to while investigating a health club, told me that men were like that much more than in parts like Colombia. It is uncomfortable to be approached by men in their 40-50s, though I don`t let it bother me too much. The car honking is worse, as I get a bit jumpy. I wonder if they would`ve continued if they had known that I`m nineteen; Just a little niña.
As for the health club, if you`ve fallen in love with the town and the healthy lifestyle of eating fish and surfing, then its good to know that they have that little club of theirs with events, deals, treatments, etc. They were really nice and warm people as well. I met the husband of the manager, and the first thing he said to me was; - "So You`re the Jenny! I`m so glad I got to meet you! I heard so much talk about you today. The biker girl." I got to hear that a few times.
I had arrived the day before and already I was famous with the locals.
Later on, I investigated some more about hostels in the area. My hostel, My Friend, is cheap and okay. They have a good setlunch. Nicer hostels for 5 soles more are Naylamp and Lily`s. Also Hotel Suissa, but that`s more indoor-enjoyment. Hostel Muachaco is just as cheap as My Friend, but has a kitchen and a single room which is pretty dense.
I`ve been enjoying my stay, walking around and up to the little church, sunbathing, having ceviche, lots of strawberries: 2 soles for 1 kg of good strawberries. That`s not even a dollar! The waves have been bad again, and the water is pretty cold.



I met a couple I`ve been running into in every country so far, and I met another couple that`s also travelling by motorcycle(on one). I rode with the guy down to Trujillo to meet up with Ocean for dinner. We rode around the city, exploring. It was great. Truly interesting! It`s all new brands, food, people, places, colonial architecture, weird stuff and dead ends that are made into volleyball courts with the net hanging from one building to the other. I love how SA can never be boring.
He let me drive the bike for a bit. It was fun but pretty horrible, and getting on my own bike the next day was a true delight. We rode in the orange sunset around the dusty market-areas, that looked like something taken out of Cape Town, before he dropped me off at Ocean`s nice hotel: hostal Colonial. We spent the night, digging Trujillo. The city is strange in some ways. There are so many ice cream bars, casinoes, but it`s so hard to find shops and restaurants! We located the tiny food area two blocks to the right of the Plaza de Arma, if you`re facing the big church. Go to the packed chinese place next to San Julio. We stuffed ourselves there, and then some more, on one of the good ice cream bars. It was a good night and a good impression of a city that most people don`t like.





I hit the Pa-panamericana in the afternoon today. It was an enjoyable and thereapeutic ride. The deserts still changed. Some places there would be green fields with sand Mountains, framing the view. Other places, the desert would go straight into the big, diamond Pacific. I stopped for some fish in the largest fish harbour, called Chimbote. I could smell that I was approaching. The waitor was extatic to get to speak english. It`s not a pretty city, and a receptionist in the nice town of Casma, where I asked for advice about the next town, told me that it can be dangerous. Casma was pretty, but I had some more kilometres in me, and I continued to a place I had never heard about: Huarmey.

I arrived around 5, and got a recommendation for a hotel called Venus, and I was really pleased by the nice welcome I got from the people there. They`re a great bunch. It felt more like a home than a hotel. After a chat, I went for a walk and ended up playing volleyball with some locals who invited me for a new game tomorrow night. I decided that I really do like this town! I hadn`t seen any gringos yet, but I was spotted by two guys from czech, while I was relaxing in the park. They invited me to their hostel, Crazy Jaimes hostel, where I am now. I feel a bit bad as they`ve already given me coffee, tea and a local dish for free, even though I don`t stay here. I want to recommend that place, as its the only sociable hostel in Huarmey. It has a tv, free pushbikes, a kitchen, nice staff, parking, a guitar, free breakfast, a computer, and all for 15 soles. I really like the other place too. You get a lot more for your money in less travelled areas(not always). There`s also this other guy who`s travelling by push bike, and an italian who`s cooking for us tomorrow night! Where was he when I was in poorly fed in Colombia and Ecuador? Typical to meet him now that there`s actually good and cheap food. We`re all going to the beach, Tuqillo, tomorrow. I`m glad I went the extra miles.



(Plaza de Armas, Huarmey)



Victor had been less fortunate... His bike had broken down three times in the desert, and he has to go on a 15 hr bus back up north to where the bike is. And he was in a worse hurry than me... Two times sick and then that.

10 december:

Blogging in the middle of a tiny party, here. In the evening yesterday, I was introduced to a colombian and his ecuadorian girlfriend, who are travelling on a KLR 650, down past Lima. We decided to travel together. I spent that morning looking for the hostel, which I never found because I forgot the name, and I ended up returning to previous hotel with a tail between my legs. http://www.jaimecrazyperu.com/proyecto4/index7.html is the webpage.

On the way to the beach, my chain fell off again, so it was great that the colombian guy could help me out with tightening it. I really need to get it changed in Lima. The beach is 15 min from downtown and its b.eautifully turqouise. The water is however freezing!
My friends from the other hostel showed up too. I felt bad, as they had waited all morning for me to come around. After some good conversations about South American politics and society(in spanish), we teamed up on the bikes: 2 and 3. I was surprised that the police didn`t stop them as they were three people, but I guess they really just care for trailers and buses.
I went for my volleyball appointment, chilled out, all exhausted from sun and bad sleeping for a long time, before my friends picked me up to go here to the hostel for some cuy(hamster) and pisco sour. I never had cuy before. It`s good! Like a fatty chicken, I guess. The accessories were delicious. Can`t wait to try alpakka, which is supposed to be Really good. I was up for testing something new today. My diet is just fruit, ceviche, other fish and sublime, chocolate and almond ice cream. Still love the peruvian cuisine!
Now they`re all convincing themselves to stay another night to go to a disco here downtown. I`m still keen on hitting the road tomorrow, to go to San Bartolo and surrender my bike, before perhaps going to Lima. But it Is after all very cheap and nice here.. to be continued

Desert riding to Huanchaco

I left behind 622km of desert road today. I didn`t calculate on how windy it would be. It was a tough ride, and it wasn`t possible to ride faster than 110km/h, even though the roads were long, vast and flat. Every time I would overtake or pass by a truck, the wind would shift to either pull or hit me. The landscape was new and interesting. Especially right south of Mancora, where you suddenly enter a beautiful oasis. You pass by different levels of desert: from vegetational desert, to yellow, to white, to desert with a mountanious horizon that like a norwegian mountain would have pockets of snow, have sand instead, because of the wind. It was the first time I`ve seen Real poverty and some landscape covered in colourful plastic bags that got stuck in bushes. The panoramic views were impressive, and the roads themselves are good. I was once again thinking about how good life is to me. Just because I was in the middle of nowhere on the 7th of december, and a bit because along the roads, people were spending their whole lives in what I think of as a nowhere, celebrating with a tree they will never see, I started playing different christmas songs in my head. Surprisingly enough, I actually got some christmas spirit! Have I ever done anything less related to christmas then motorcycling through peruvian desert, though?

I didn`t stop for much else than gas-filling. Gas is expensive in Peru. One stop was due to a bridge being shut off because of some riot or something. I saw a bunch of people being chased into a field by the police that were shooting rubber bullets. I will never know why.
Traffic in Trujillo is crazy, but I made it to Huanchaco. Thank God that I went all the way! It`s great here. I found a hostel called my friend, for 10 soles, met some nice people, had a big plate of ceviche for 7; a special deal from the owner that invited me for some beers. I walked along the big beach at sunset, met some people from Mancora, at when I bought my first Cola. Never craved it in my lief. I`m just tired after today... Feel Really bad for the one`s I`ve met who are travelling by push bike on that stretch!! I`ll break up my ride down to Lima into two days to be able to enjoy it enough. I`m halfway. Actually passed by Victor. Ocean is staying in Trujillo to get some writing done. We`re all meeting up for Frode`s birthday party in Lima on saturday. It`s nice to make some closer friends here and there. You get too tired if you only have lots of random aquaintences.

Just so good

Beach life is just so Good. The wind keeps it from being too hot to lie in the sun, and gives you a liittle bit of wave. I borrowed Victors board to try a little bit, and I really don`t have the muscles for it anymore. At least the water is nice. He`s become really sick, again, so I`m off to buy him some Ritz and oregano(oregano and hot water is supposed to be a remedy). The food is still good. Parihuela for instance. Just stay away from churrasco, as it`s fried and dry fish. Yesterday I was informed about a guitarplayer-singer that I should hook up with to play some songs, and we entertained in the resort for a bit.
I`m staying in another hotel now, as I found a place to bargain down 10 soles. I keep hanging out at Loki`s though, as all my friends stay there. I got to speak spanish with locals yesterday, but the locals here react differently to me, as they`re used to gringos getting wasted and not speaking to them. Such a shame.
I also visited the little fruit market and got a mango smoothie for one sol(that`s less than 5kr).

It was strange to leave Mancora, as it felt like I just got there. I never had time to get bored for a second. I entertained with another guitarist, as the bartender had assigned himself to become my manager, changed the oil, slept in the sun, walked the beach at sunset, cut Ocean, my californian friend`s hair, got a massage for payment, had some more ceviche, tried the best seafood restaurant in town(which is the lonely planet rec one), and had a goodbye dinner at La Sirena, which is very fancy cuisine. A lot of us are meeting up in Lima, so it was only goodbye to Mancora. For tips: there is also a very good heladeria that people don`t know about, to the left of Loki, on the beach. So I left Mancora at dawn, to stay at the next, a little bigger and less touristy beach: Huancacho.

Mancora, Peru

3. 12. 2010


I was sceptical to the idea of staying at a party hostel, but Loki has other qualities too.
http://www.lokihostel.com/en/mancora
Most hostels are expensive in Mancora, but here you get to stay at this big resort with a swimming pool, beachvolleyball court, pingpong, pooltable, a big bar, free computers, different events every day, hammocks, free coffee, tea and a pettish breakfast. There are so many people to meet and get to know here, and I also ran into a few that I knew from before. Like the swedish girl that I sent my bag with from Medellin to Quito, and her boyfriend. My british friend from Latacunga. Some friends from Baños and a couple from Vilcabamba, that are really staying at another hostel, but visit here. The first person I met when I came here was a good friend I made in Vilcabamba that was at one point considering riding down here with me. Considering the dry offroad I crossed, I`m pretty glad he didn`t. It would`ve been suicidal.

It was amazing to walk ten meters from the hostel and be right at the beautiful beach, and the sunset later on was terrificly pink. Suddenly it was like being back at Kuta beach, Bali, sitting down on the sand, hugging my knees with a smile on my face. And oh, the food! I love the ceviche. Its just the seafood, fruit and All of the other food too. So good and cheap! It`s more expensive here in Mancora, as it is touristy, but for what you get... wow. We have so many restaurants to check out, and I`m liking the thought of spending a week here. After dinner with my Vilcabamba friends: which involves a californian bloke(that I know is reading this), a finnish girl and her danish boyfriend, there was karaoke night at Loki`s. We all rocked it, and after singing "what a feeling", me and my finnish friend got a free drink. Wasn`t really drinking, but the word free is just irresistible to a sunnmoring. It was great fun!

I`m not too bothered by noice when going to sleep, but it can wake you up. That`s the price of staying at a hostel like this. Might move to the one next to this that`s a little bit cheaper, and rather hang out at Loki`s.
This morning, I was as usual the only one getting up at time, and went for a yoga session right by the beach(8 o clock), that fixed my exhausted back. The yoga session is run by a great american woman and you pay by donation. Then I went to go try if my credit card works here in Peru, and Hipp hipp hurray if it doesn`t! So good to have money again and be independent! No more blowing off money to Western Union.
I went straight to haggle and shop the missing swimwear and sunglasses before chilling out on the beach. It`s windy and nice. The water is just right, but it`s been flat for a while. Surfing was quite difficult, but the paddling was great excercise. Everyone`s waiting for the waves to pick up on sunday. It better! The beachvolleyball here isn`t much. - The only disappointment. I`m happy.

What a day

I snuk out of Cuenca in the dusk of day, and headed for the Peruvian border. I was slower than planned with morning routines, drove through the city and was sent in the wrong direction at one point(of course. 10 minutes gone). I realized at that point that "damn, I´m in a hurry". I didn´t want Victor to wait, as he stayed an extra night for me to meet up with him.
In the beginning, the roads were brilliant. Up in the highlands, there would be the "usual" rolling hills, farms with cows and colourful clothes hanging to dry on the wooden fences, and lots of children waiting for the schoolbus along the roads. I was also enjoying the sight of the traditional outfits that women wear here in Ecuador. Then I hit the descening roads that lead me to a big valley of morning sun, lighting up mountains curved and decorated no more logically than a little kids doodling. Still the roads were great.

Suddenly that changed as I rode upwards towards the rocky mountains. It turned to gravel. I mean Offroad gravel! In the beginning, I thought it would be short and good training for me to see how Tornado will perform on such terrain, which he is good for. Unfortunatly his chain is not good for it, and it fell of twice. There were roadworkers that helped me out in the terrible heat to put it back on and tighten it. I was so late. Reaching real roads again was divine, but I was Late, and it took me a long time to reach civilization with a phone so that I could call and tell Victor that I was late and that he should go ahead. He decided to wait. I rode fast on good roads. South of Machala, the roads are all flat and long, framed in mangrove palms. I made it before 11, and we went to Peru.. Oh, wait. The first time wasn´t legal!
The border is rediculously set up, and we had to go back to search for the different departments. I smiled to myself the third time I entered Ecuador, a country I know I´ll never go back too, even though it´s a great one. There was hardly traffic, but it all took us 1,5hour, before we could continue on along the desert(my first), and suddenly come across ocean after not seeing the ocean for 3 months!
Gorgeous! The little towns are very rural in the north. Always interesting to enter a new country. We were in Peru! Again.

Baños, Cuenca and Vilcabamba

28.11.2010

I changed my whole blogsite that day I was so ungratefully bored, and the next day I went for a careful walk up to the mirador. I ate good pad thai chicken at Casa hood, watching the movie playing, then I was interviewed by a girl that was collecting stories from solo female travellers in South America, and went to bed. I got up really early to leave for Cuenca. The trip was amazing! I´m always nervous about riding, until I get on the bike.
I could see the big volcano by Baños spewing out smoke of its crater. It was hard to keep my eyes on the road. Later on, I passed by snowy Chimbarazo; the tallest volcano in Ecuador. I enjoyed myself on the great roads, all the way to Alausi. After that, the roads got much worse. There was also a beautiful place called Ibiales or something, that looked like it had inspired the first fairy tale authors, with the oddly shaped green hills and a castle like church in the side of one, bathing in crystal sunlight.
I reached the classical Cuenca right before it started to rain. I asked gringos on the street for a hostel. I met them again, in another town. The city was surprisingly beautiful, with its european architect. Found a cheap, unsociable hostel with a nice staff right by Calle Larga, settled down, got to know the owner of a Pakistanian restaurant, who gave me a discount, then went to the cinema and saw Eat, pray love. The movie is about Julia Roberts travelling, among other places to Bali, so I was trying to recognize where they "wanted it" to be set. Did see the monkeys from Ubud, and got a terrible craving for italian food.
In the morning, I walked around to see the pretty city, met some friends from Colombia, got money from Western Union, changed my tyre: 43usd for a tyre. 2usd for changing it, and had to pay 35 usd for new gloves, as I was dumb enough to leave them on the bike and drive off.
I wasn´t finished paying for my whimsicality that day, however...

The busride to Vilcabamba made me ralize how much better riding with a motorcycle is.
I left my bike in Cuenca to be able to travel after dark, so that I had time to enjoy Vilcabamba, and the beautiful hosteria www.Izhcayluma.com, which is more like a resort, only for 10usd including a breakfast buffet. The nature is beautiful, there´s a pool, hammocks, big and nice rooms, there´s a cheaper massage parlour than in Baños, which Really made me bitter! There´s a bar, tv, pool- and ping pong table. Around the area, there are so many great treks to do. Today we couldn´t leave the hosteria until 5, because Ecuador is gathering info about everyone in the country. So we had a huge breakfast, slept in hammocks, talked, sunbathed by the pool, had lunch, talked. Now I might go and fix what was caused by my whimsicality again:
After getting off the bus in Loja, sleepy and not used to having another set of luggage, guess what I forget?
I realized this after buying my onward ticket, and they tell me to catch a taxi to follow the bus, because the luggage wasn´t at the terminal. The taxidriver was strange, as he tried to charge me when we hadn´t pulled over the bus yet, and as I said I wouldn´t pay until I had my luggage, he didn´t seem to try to catch up with the bus until we reached Vilcabamba, and he charged me 15 usd for it. I told him to buy something nice to his 6 kids.. But he had also said that I was close to my hosteria, which I was not and had to pay another ride there. The worst part was however that when I pulled the bus over, my luggage wasn´t there, and the driver told me it´s in the bus terminal. 16 usd straight into the toilet...Plus having to return to the station. One says one learns from your mistakes, but Man, there are a lot of mistakes to make out there!
But done is done. I´m happy to be in this wonderful place, where so many people get "caught" for longer than they had planned.

3. december, 2010

Damn, was I right to say that. Izhcayluma just turned out to be my second favorite place in all of South America. Fine, there was some stress involved in the fact that the buspeople sent me after the wrong bus, and my luggage ended up in Cuenca, before I went to get it two days ago.
But I was never bored for one second, those four nights I spent there. Good food, so friendly staff and I don´t think I´ve found that many great people in one hostel before. My knee healed and we went first on the San Jose trail, among others with a french guy that we only spoke spanish to(good practice), then the next day, up the scenic Mondonga trail. There are so many options. I loved that one. So great to excercise again! I´m enjoying the fact that my youth and previous training allows me to slack off from excercising and still be able to run ahead. When you reach the top, you´re walking along a really thin ridgeline, with a 360 degree view of the green mountains around. I was trotting along, smiling and listening to "O holy night", of all things. It´s soon christmas. Did a whole lot of reflecting on that walk. My stay at Izhcayluma has really relighted my fire for travelling and enjoyment. I was walking on clouds, feeling partly sorry for all the people with imaginary chains. My heart is open to all adventures. I´m free. Happy. It´s not just about travelling, it´s about taking the plunge and realize the endless opportunities that are out there. How did I afford to do live this kind of life? How did I ever diserv it? It´s so crazy Not to do it. I really want to say thanks to my family for the chance to save up for this trip.
I took the bus back to Cuenca with a british friend, and stayed at the Cuencanier again, had some pakistani food and sang karaoke that we rediculously enough had to pay for. I had to get up Really early to make it to meet Victor in Arenillas, before crossing the border. That would become easier said than done..

Riding solo

Sunday, November 21st, 2010

Latacunga

I was lucky enough to have a mechanic at the site where my bike was parked, so I didn't have to ride through the town. He showed me how to tighten the chain, which unfortunatly needs to be changed soon, how to clean the airfilter and we shortened the kickstand, and made the plattform larger and more durable. After that, I was gonna go shopping to get other pants than my running pants. I was so happy to finally have a credit card, and Pow, it doesnt work! So frustrating, but I got money from the Western Union this morning. It did remind me of how it was when I was in Sydney, living in one of the most luxurious hotels in the city, without money for food the next day. But the receptionist of the hostel lent me money in exchange for my passport as security, so I went out with some fun australians.
The next morning, I did some chores and I tried to leave at the same time as Ray and Victor, but I ended up leaving on my own for Banos: first taking a wrong turn that forced me to go a looong way around, and it was raining and eventually freezing. Luckily the roads were wide open without traffic. I decided to stop in Latacunga instead, and I'm so glad for that! Its an amazing little town with surrounding mountains. I found a great hostel: hostel cafe tienda, met some nice people. Walked around the town looking at beautiful churches, the nice market thats every day, got to know some locals while trying out some new food. They give samples here too, and it makes me feel a bit bad when I really don't want to buy it!
I don't mind staying one more day. Banos is only two hours away, and there's a lake to see from the back of my bike. Happy that I left Quito!!

For some reason, I was exhausted this morning, and didn`t feel like rushing around town to see it before hopping on the bike to Banos. I decided to rest my leg and wait till tomororw, when there`s also less traffic. Was gonna go really early, but I don`t know anymore as I met a guy who`s driving up Cotopaxi after an artisan market. It means I`ll be going to Banos late, and I`ll probably get wet n cold, but I`ll go if the weather`s good.
I walked around a bit to take photos, and took Tornado out for a little spin to make sure that everythings alright, as he was a bit shaky when we arrived here. It was only the altitude though, and he`s good now. Rode up to the top of the city to look around, and also go to some areas where I wouldn`t really walk. Went to the market twice today for some fruit and later ceviche. I bought a big bad of strawberries, blackberries, a banana and a mango for 1,5usd in total! After fussing a lot about which movie to choose, we ended up with "the visitor", which was really good!
But yeah.. Really looking forward to Banos tomorrow! Feel bad for Victor, who`s in the hospital with food poisining. That`s one of the things I have to be really careful about. Miss being able to drink the tapwater, as one does in Colombia. Also miss a bit of heat.. brr.. Travelling South America and I`m both freezing and pale(w one blue foot though). What is this? Gotta get down to the coast soon.



Monday, November 22nd, 2010

Baños!

God damn! I like it.
I turned down the offer of a roadtrip up Cotopaxi, as I was more keen on getting to Baños, one of the places that have been very high on my list. It´s the place for thermal baths, adventuresports, trekking, horsebackriding, eating and being a true gringo. It´s very touristy, but I have been so far off the gringo trail for a while that I don´t mind too much. I only mind the "short trip- lonely planet travelling slaves", that doesn´t get to know the country nor the people, at all.
Riding to Baños was great. The sun was shining, I had my mp3 and it was a surprisingly short trip. Unfortunatly, as I stopped to take a photo, my camera appeared to strike! It´s the focus, so I had to accept that I couldn´t take any photos of this beautiful place, just yet. Baños is in a green valley of steep mountains. One which is a volcano that you can ride or hike far up on. Coming in to the town, I saw loads of foreigners, quadbikes, restaurants and hotels. I checked in to Plantas y Blancos, which is a great hostel for 6,50, met a guy from Salento, almost passed out in one of the sunbeds, walked around, had a really good lunch and afterwards a great full body massage with great aromas, hotstones and an included facial: total 70minutes for 15usd...! I had been craving that. I got pampered some more in the hot thermal baths by the waterfall: three pools with different temperatures: 2usd entry. We also went to a good restaurant with great international food and movies showing, called club house. Tomorrow morning are we going to do a kind of "swing" from a 90m high bridge: 15usd. Unfortunatly there is no bungee jump. I can´t do too much with my knee either. Frustrating.. But should heal soon.







Wednesday, November 24th, 2010


I went to the bridge to bungee with a group of Aussies. I was set on making it as scary as possible, so I went last. Actually jumping from the edge is terrifying, but there was hardly any free fall. When I went with Victor later in the day, he got the second jump cheaper and with a longer freefall(recommend just showing up on the bridge and haggling, as the equipment is already there).
I considered riding my bike up the hills when the others were renting quadbikes, but I had never ridden one before, so I went for it, luckily, as it was great fun! The scenery is beautiful and the roads were swingy and loco. We saw the tip of the volcano through the clouds at one point. After that amount of adrenaline, we needed some time on the sunbeds. Later, I decided to get another massage from another parlour, just so that I could say who to recommend. It was just me being really nice! Unfortunatly, the Chakra massose wasn´t there, and since I had already tried Prana(which is really good as for sents, the bed, hotstones, massage, oils, music and price), I decided to try a recommended chinese place. After a nice conversation with a woman from Urugay, I practiced some of my mandarin words with my massose! I haggled the price a bit, and got one of the worst massages I´ve had... I´ve had quite a few in Bali. It was a depressing waste of money, which you do spend a lot of here.
For dinner, we were disappointingly aware that Casa Hood was closed that day and the next. They have great international dishes! We went to Cafe Good instead. Yes, their names are similar. There´s also a Cafe Hood, to make it even more complicated. I don´t know if its on purpose, because Plantas Y Blanco is a popular hostel here, and there is another hostel with almost the same name, for people that make that mistake.
After checking out a few bars, among one a karaoke bar where I got to sing some, we shut our eyes after a good day. The next one would be rather boring..
I´ve been restless as everyone is doing activities that I can´t. I tried to locate somewhere to buy a new tyre, but I´ll have to do that in Riobamba tomorrow morning. I tried to figure out wether or not to go to Cuenca, as not doing that could save me several hours on the road. But the road down between the mountains are supposed to be spectacular, and I don´t really have anything else to do down south. I´ve been waiting all day for a mail from my modelling agent, as I got word that Exito needed me urgently.
I sent a mail saying that it would be good to know when, as I need to get to an airport in that case. Once again, it´s taking them forever to reply. I´m just struggling with myself a little bit today. I feel really restless, which I didn´t expect at all. Would´ve been different if I could trek, climb and horsebackride. At least I had a good big lunch at my favorite spot: the second floor restaurant at the right corner before arriving at the supermarket from my hostel, which is near the beautiful church.

Hola, Ecuador!

Thursday, November 18th, 2010

We left Popayan earlier than planned for Ipiales, which nearly gave me a heart attack, or at least it gave me an alsure, because I wasn't informed of the change of plan. But oh my God, the landscape! Wow.. The roads were really great too. I`ve improved my riding a lot as for taking turns and standing up whenever its bumpy or there`s gravel. I haggled us into a nice hotel in Ipiales, had a nice shower and POW! It struck me that I had left my passport in Popayan, too stressed to remember that it was in the safe. Our room hadn`t been possible to lock, so I had done that to keep it safe. Should've kept it on me, and learned from it! I did that the day before the border crossing, leaving behind a rather dangerous stretch to do by nightbus! So problem-solving was needed. The amazing hotel owner of our Popayan hotel, Pass home, who had already gone out of his way to be a great host, sent his employee on the bus there. So I had to pay for the bustickets and 100 pesos extra. It worked out, but it was another lesson learned.
We went to Ipiales in the morning. The church is very touristy, very beautiful. We didn`t stay long, but went straight for the border crossing, though I would've liked to stay longer. I was nervous about crossing without a licence(I have a police report saying that I have lost it), but I charmed my way through! The guys were really nice and one of them actually said: its just one girl.
We did encounter some drama in leaving Colombia, however, because they couldn`t find their temporary importation papers for their bikes. So for a moment, it looked like they couldn`t leave with their bikes, and that I would be crossing alone. After a while, they found the papers and we could breathe again. We said our goodbyes to Colombia, welcoming Ecuador and its cheap gasoline.

We spent the night in Ibarra, after a delicious meal: lasagna and strawberry milkshake, to great old hits. Finally something tasty!
The landscape in Ecuador has changed drasticly, and its so interesting now that we`ve had enough of the same green scenery. And the mountains.. We went up to lake Cotocatchi in the morning. There`s a beautiful village and the lake is stunning! After that, we had lunch and went to Quito. There was a scary moment where we were following the taxi that was supposed to take us to their spanish school, and the dad, Mike, tried to position himself on the side of the car, when the car was taking a left turn, and he bumped into the son, Sean. The bump caused him to fall on his bike, and he almost got hit by a taxi. He instead slid across the side of the taxi before getting back up again. If the taxi had been a Little bit slower...

The family had arranged a weeks spanish lesson with home stay, in Quito. That`s where my bike is at right now. I`m staying at the Secret garden, where my stuff has been waiting for me for quite some time. It was great travelling with the family. I learned a lot from them. Also a bit of mechanical stuff and mandarin. At least I tought them a little bit of spanish in return. I`m forever thankful for their kindness.
But its also very wonderful to be free and independent again. I can now go where I want to, and they said that I was ready to fly off on my own, skillwise. However slow I`ll probably be driving down to Banos. (That they didn`t say)
I`ve had dinner and met some new people. I`ve been missing the hostel/gringo lifestyle a bit. Its good to relax and heal my knee. Tomorrow I`m taking my bike to the dealer to tighten my chain and chop off 1,5cm of the kickstand to make up for the lowering and extra luggage. Don`t know quite yet what time I`ll be off to Banos. I want to go to Cotopaxi, but not with this knee. I! can decide that now. Victor and Ray are staying in the hostel across the street, actually. We`ve said goodbye quite a few times.

Group riding from Cali to Popayan

Sunday, November 14th, 2010

Still alive!

Today`s riding was great. We got out of Cali at the perfect time to avoid traffic. I had to get used to driving very close to the others, as we were seven bikes sticking together. I was "assigned" to be in the middle, for safety`s sake. It was really great fun to ride like that, because there was so much strategy involved in placement, overtaking, signaling and safety. The first period outside of the city is long flats, before the more normal turns, small villages, etc. As we were a big group, we didn`t get stopped at any of the military checkpoints. There were a Lot of them, and they all gave us the thumb up. The first hour from Popayan to Pasto is however supposed to involve a poor road, and I think the ride itself will be tough. My neck and shoulder are in agony today, so the extra day the others wanted to spend here will probably do me good. I also need to practice a few things like tight turns and picking up the bike without straining my back too much. You can either lift or squat it up.

We found a hostel in Popayan that had a really big indoor parking(that`s the most important thing about chosing a hotel or hostal now), for 18000 a night. The owner and his family took us to eat a good lunch, and showed us around a little bit. Popayan had a big earthquake in 1983, and a whole area just crumbled in the 19sec quake. He also took us to the most expensive hotel here, which used to be a monestary. Seing luxury like that again was a bit strange. There had been a motorcycle ralley in the area, and they all met up in the center square before heading off. After watching the huge bikes pass and talking to some locals, we went walking around the city, up to a church on the hill and down. We met and went with some people that were going to a video conference event, that was going on in Tokyo, New York, London and here. The shortfilm we saw was about the indigenious people of Colombia. Now I`m going to do something useful, and hope to see this nice town in glorious sunshine, tomorrow. It`s "so long" to Victor in the morning, as he`s heading towards Ipiales. We agreed to keep in touch and work on promoting free voluntary work on his website: www.dondeestavictor.com . Bike travelling on a schedule, I`m afraid the website catch up is just going to keep growing if we don`t push each other a bit.

So as I said.. I`m alive! No uncomfortable or dangerous situations today, besides Victor almost running over a dog. Doing this, I`m not really taking things for granted.

Becoming a biker

Saturday, November 13th, 2010

A new... twist..

I never felt that I was like other people, and this is probably the biggest proof I have of that being the truth. My heart was so open to everything, ready to jump into every adventure crossing my path. I was already high on life. My decision brought me deep down at times, but also sky high. I will never regret it.

As we came to Salento, we checked in at La Serrana, which was nothing like my simple life finca, but it had parking and it had an absolutely lovely country house feel, and an included breakfast. Victor met some friends from the Panama boat: a couple that was travelling by push bike, and we went out with them to eat. Right after we arrived, we also met a polish couple that had two bikes for sale: a red Honda 225 xl, and the bike that swoomed me: a black Honda 250 Tornado. They say girls fall for guys that are tall, dark and bad for you. Now I can join that club.
The next morning, after talking a lot about practical stuff, we went for a test run up Valle de Cocora's muddy slopes. I rode the red bike up there, and I probably should have ridden the Tornado to realize how tall he was for me. Just how that would effect my riding, I would painfully discover later on.
Our original idea was that we'd find me a bike in Ecuador, but here two bikes were, bought in Argentina, with all the papers ready to be transferred into my name, without spending days arranging a local purchase where I wouldn't know what I'd be getting. The red bike was considerably cheaper, but this if I'm gonna risk my life, then I'm not risking it for something that's second best. It's also a popular bike that shouldn't be too difficult to sell, with contacts, and it's easy to find and fix parts here. South americans are also fantastic at coming up with creative solutions. Bikes and bikers are popular in Colombia. We luckily don't have to pay or stop at checkpoints, which would have made traffic much slower.

On the way down from the Valley, I got to try the Tornado. It immediately felt amazing. To see how it felt, I was in the lead, riding a bit faster than I had, as there was no traffic. But too many things going on in my head, in addition to the surprise of seing a truck on my side of the road after exiting a turn, kept me from being cautious for wet leaves, and on the wet ground I tried to turn slowly. But it was too slow, and I slipped, terrified that I had just smashed Tornado. I could feel that I was alright, even though my knee had taken a hit. No one had thought to lend me knee protectors... I couldn't walk in the beginning, and for the first few seconds, I thought: that was it. No more riding for me. But they were all nice about it, and I realized that no, it wasn't over. We all fall, again and again. I've fallen several times since, but standing still, and learning from it every time. One time was when we all stopped in a hill, one time was just my knee being too weak to stop the tall bike from tipping, and the last time was crawling through the slow rush hour, taking a chance by following others onto the a bit too muddy side road and then driving too slow when going back up on the curve. For that and rough terrain, I´ve learned that you should stand up on the bike, which will make things a whole new deal. It's been tough and it hurts my confidence more than me. Unfortunatly, the one time I just tipped over was right after I had bought the bike, and it was directly on my wounded knee, causing it too swoll up like hell. I had to walk a lot around on it, comparing prices and buying protection, though I couldn't bend it. That, being tired, the fear of not being able to protect my bike and myself from falling, the question if I had just made a huge mistake buying an expensive bike that I have to take responsibility for and sell for less than I bought it for, the fact that I was under a lot of pressure to learn a lot of precautions and technical stuff at once, as Victor is in a hurry to get far down south, made things really hard. All of those things, how much time it took to arrange my stuff, how the red Honda tipped over his KLR, and broke the expensive wind shield, how one of his his specialized luggage straps that he had lent to me got caught in the wheel to cut it into two, and how he worried and felt responsible for me, as he was the experienced one that introduced me to the whole idea, for made our relationship pretty strained. I have learned so much in an extremely short time, and there is still a lot to learn. So many precautions! You never know whats around the next corner: gravel, water, a car, tree, a cow... and riding in the city is serious. You can't drop your bike there. But people do. Its just for the others around you to stop as well and make signal for people that they need to avoid you. Scary as hell, though.

The scenery is great, as it is Colombia. We didn´t take the Panamericana, but a more scenic road. I heard great things about the state of the Panamericanan highway. The roads in Colombia are pretty alright compared to what I´ll have to expect further south. But there are also highlights that I´m looking forward too, such as stretches in Peru, Salar de Uyuni, Argentina, crazy Bolivian roads, etc. We´re also going up in the highlands more and more now. It should be interesting. Before you reach Cali, you have the lush ground fields and a sudden mountain range, framing in the horizon ahead of you. We entered the city before dark, in rush hour, as I mentioned. Sticking together, finding someone to show us the way, and reaching the Casa Blanca hostel, was Hot in the new geer. The first people we met were a family that were all travelling on motorcycles from Canada to the southern tip of Argentina. Its awesome. The mother rides a big bike and it inspires me. I have lowered the bike and when we went touring today, we found me some trekking shoes for 1/3 the price of back home, to make me taller and dryer. Cali isn't bad. I was surprised today when I found out that it was a saturday, though. I should be out salsadancing right now. Things changed drastically again: After getting to know this great family, the circumstances changed to me travelling along with them down south and on the eastern side of Ecuador, which I was bummed out for missing if we'd go straight to Montanita. I´m going to be functioning as the spanish speaker and teacher, which will be nice. Hopefully I can get the recipe on how to become a travelling family one day. So far I got the tip: start early.
After our little downtown tour, I was invited to dinner with some locals, and I walked some more. Tired now. So... yeah. Now there's a totally new travelling! And I guess I kind of said screw modelling, for now. They called me two days after I left, saying that Chevignon wanted to meet me the next day, and went "what, have you left??", even though I had told them repeatedly. After that, she said she'd call. This time I'm not surprised that she still hasn't. The company is probably bancrupt or was never a real one from the start. Just puzzles me that the girl from Laura's school was one of their models. The agency's website is shut down, now. Strange...

Riding to Manizales, on the back of a motorcycle

Monday, November 8th, 2010

The departure was put off for a few days, as the motorcycle nor Victor functioned properly. I was crashing at Nicole`s place. If I haven't mentioned Nicole, she's an american girl I really got a long with while volunteering with little kids. We went to see "The Road", in the cinema, the other night. - Brilliant movie!
We did some outdoor yoga, exploring, cooking, silly- movie-watching, went to a small cafe with a thursday night jam session and book exchange(near casa kiwi), where we hung out with some other girls from the volunteering. One of them was supposed to teach me how to drum. I played beachvolley with some locals my last day. Felt goood!
Today, me and Victor were finally on the road towards Ecuador. The bike, Olga, was Packed and it was really tight. I feel really bad for him as he is hurting. - Further motivation for me to pay for all of the gasoline, as it also is his bike. The landscape is B-eautiful, and we were lucky with the weather. Not so lucky with the policemen that fined him for driving above 102 km/hr, when that isn`t possible with that heavy load. I was also watching the meter a few seconds before, and no way. But we were nice, didn`t offer a bribe, and kept on going. Because he was tired after no sleep, sickness and a crammed bike, plus rainclouds ahead, we decided to spend the night in Manizales before going to Salento.

Manizales was a nice surprise! I really like it. We checked in to the pitstop hostel, and I went straight to the Enforma gym, where I paid 8000pesos for normal excercise and an inzane rumba-class. Met some nice locals there, and other than that.. It`s weird to be back in the hostel-life, although I`m not very often staying in dorms. We had a late night after a relaxing jacuzzi session, some Delicious chocolate fudge(trust me, we appreiciate such tastes after some time here) and good conversations.

Victor slept in this morning while I went with some other guys for breakfast. We`re taking it slow before going to Salento, where we`ll be spending the night.